home climbing areas field notesknowledgedisclaimercopyrightcontactdonate

Update: last updated on 20/04/2019.

Aguja Saint-Exupery - West face

5. Chiaro di Luna

5.1 Los Angelitos
5.2 Supertrek
5.3 Can Accompany Only

750m 6b+

Maurizio Giordani, Rosanna Manfrini and Sergio Valentini (IT), 4-5/11/1987.

Description. For the grade it is one of the best free routes in the area. It starts 30 meters up the basalt dike. Twenty pitches aprox.

History. The first ascentionists descended in the moonlight, hence the name.

Solo ascents. Alexander Huber (DE) in 2011, with one bivy. In early 2015 Brette Harrington (US) did the first free-solo ascent taking a mere three hours. With this ascent she became the first woman to have soloed one of the towers in the massif. Less than ten days later Marc-André Leclerc (CA) did the second free-solo ascent.

On 3/2019, Jim Reynolds (US) free-soloed the route, carrying no rope or gear and down-free-soloing the Kearney-Harrington (550m 6a+). He onsighted both routes. Two days earlier he had free-soloed the complete (sit-start) Filo Oeste (1000m 6b) of Aguja Rafael Juárez, down-free-soloing the Anglo-Americana (350m 6b). A little over a week later he free-soloed the Afanassieff route on Cerro Fitz Roy (1500m, 6a+), taking 6:38hs to reach the summit and 8:30hs to down-free-solo the same route. In the early 1900s, Austrian Paul Preuss, considered by many “the father of style” had preached and practiced free-soloing up and down peaks as the “honest, sporting” way to climb (his words). He argued that one should “overcome difficulties with your own strength, on ascent and descent alike,” explaining that “if there is someplace you can’t go down, you should also not go up.” One could have never imagined that Preuss's maxims would be one day applied to a peaks like Agujas Rafael Juárez, Saint-Exúpery and Cerro Fitz Roy. One stylistic argument one can make about Jim's ascents is that they are the first free ascents of these formations. If rappels and pendulums are not considered free-climbing in a face such as El Cap, why should an ascent of a jagged peak be considered free unless the descent is also done free? More info about Jim's free-solo ascents and descents here.

Approach. Polacos.

Descent.You can descend the route for which you will need to bring a lot of cord and a hammer. The faster descent is down straight from the base of the upper chimney to reach the Kearney-Harrington ramp and down this directly into the couloir. This second option requires that you bring boots and crampons with you.

Bibliography. Mountain Magazine 125 p. 13; AAJ 1989 p. 176; CAI-Rivista Mensile 1988/4 p. 76; Rivista della Montagna 96 p. 13; Lo Scarpone 1988/5 p. 7; Lo Scarpone 1988/11 p.11; Samas/Alpinismo Oggi (1991) p. 14-15.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Saint Exupery

Saint-Exupery north face

Saint Exupery

Saint-Exupery north face

Saint Exupery

Saint-Exupery west face

Saint Exupery

Saint-Exupery west face

5.1 Los Angelitos

In 1995 Thomy Bonapace (Austria) and Julian Hevia (Spain) climbed an 8-pitch variation start on the north face (300m 6b). They climbed a dihedral and cracks 100 meters left of the NW buttress, to join Chiaro di Luna at the obvious ledge half way up. The quality of the rock is questionable at times. While returning to camp at a very late hour Julian fell while traversing a snowfield without crampons and slid out of control 250 meters before managing to self arrest not far from a cliff band. As he fell, he saw many angels hovering around him: Los Angelitos. The first ascentionists descended the upper portion of Chiaro di Luna to the base of the upper chimney, from where they rappelled straight down to the Kearney-Harrington route. This has become the preferred rap line.

Bibliography. Gipfelsturmer 1996 p. 21.

5.3 Can Accompany Only

In early 2014 Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera (IT) and Silvan Schupbach (CH) climbed a variation heading up and right, climbing 150 meters of easy terrain, followed by two pitches up a series of flakes (50m 5, 60m 6a), reaching after another 20 meters (4+) the base of a dihedral with a finger crack. This dihedral is the crux pitch (7a) and offers very good climbing. After 35 meters they exited right to another crack system (40m 6c) traversing to the left when the climbing becomes easier to reach the col between the two summits and join the Austríaca. Three more pitches (to 6b) lead to the summit. In this section they climbed the line followed during the first ascent of Last Gringo Standing which might differ slightly from the original line of the Austriaca, which is supposed to be slightly easier (to 6a).

Please Do Not Reprint This Article
This article is copyrighted. Please do not reprint this article in whole or part, in any form, without obtaining written permission.

if you find any mistakes or if you have additional information, please go to the contact page and let us know.

Aguja Saint-ExupéryEast face 1. Italiana1.1 Kozulj - Magaldi2. Ural PathNorth face3. Kearney-Harrington3.1 Glick-Davis3.2 Bienvenidos en PatagoniaWest face5. Chiaro di Luna5.1 Los Angelitos5.2 Super Trek5.3 Can Accompany Only6. Crouch-Brooks6.1 Tical7. Last Gringo StandingSouth face8. Austriaca 9. Attempt10. Le Petit Prince10.1 Driel-Fine11. Condorito12. AstrochossTraverseTravesía Copp-Wharton


If you find this web page useful, please consider making a donation

Chaltén Massif
Cerro San Lorenzo
Cerro Murallón
Cerro Riso Patron
Cerro Catedral/Frey
Tetons (USA)

Trail restoration work