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Update: last updated on 24/02/2018.

Cerro Solo (ca. 2100m).

1. Cara Este / Matzi - Sabatté
2. Falcone/San Vicente
3. Chossopotamia
7. French Connection
8. Los gringos no comen llajua
4. El Dragón
5. Dong Patrol
6. Wright

Cerro Solo was christened by the Sociedad Cientifica Alemana 1916 expedition.

Looking for vantage points to explore and map the area the members of the expedition traversed the glacier at the base of Solo’s south face, known as Ventisquero Solo, to approach the upper portion of the Túnel glacier and reach the col that separates Cerro Solo from Cerro Grande, which they christened Paso Túnel.

 

 


Cerro Solo - East face

1. Cara Este

50º 3

Roberto Matzi and Enrique Sabatté (Argentina), 13/2/1949.

Description. From De Agostini cross the tyrolean and follow the trail that contours Laguna Torre until you reach an obvious ravine. Head up this ravine to eventually climb up and right, over easy rocky terrain to reach the glacier. Contour the glacier via its right side to reach the obvious rock band below the summit. From there either traverse left and go up the last steep section of the glacier (50º) crossing a few crevasses in the way or continue up and right and climb easy rock to the summit.

1.1 Matzi and Sabatté got onto the glacier by going far to the left.

1.2 it is also possible to climb a line just to the right of the previous line, possibly climbed years ago, repeated or first completed by Emiliano Garcia, 2015.

1.3 In 2000, Bruce Miller (US) and Bruno Sourzac (FR), climbed the upper headwall via the left most of two waterfalls that form up there from time to time. "Las Lagrimas del Solo", 120m WI 5+.

1.4 It is also possible to climb the upper headwall via a line on its right side: 120m 5+. Sherman & Maureen Wilson, Jane Wilson, Juanita Hunter (US) and Hugh Logan (NZ) did so in February 1976. It was repeated via the line marked in the photo in 2017 by Juan Manuel Raselli, Juan Pablo Toro and Roberto Treu (AR), who found two old belay stations in the lower pitches. The Wilson's, Hunter and Logan apparently climbed a line further right than that marked on the photo in the second half.

1.5 Parties have also climbed the upper part by going around the north side of the peak.

History. Matzi and Sabatté’s was the first ascent of the peak. The first ski descent of this peak was done by Max O’Dell (USA) in October 1997.

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Cerro Solo - South/southeast face

2. Falcone/San Vicente

Adrian Falcone (AR) and Iñaki San Vicente (ES), 1989.

Description. Climbs 500 meters of vertical gain with difficulties to M3 and 50˚. The rock is of decent quality except for the last section.

History. Falcone and San Vicente's ascent was un-reported hence why we originally credited the first ascent to Juan Manuel Raselli and Ignacio Teerink who climbed it in 2012 christening it Insomnio.

Descent. Via the Cara Este route.

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Cerro Solo - South face

3. Chossopotamia

600m 55˚ 5

Andy Anderson - Austin Siadak (US), 2017.

Description. They approached via Paso de las Agachonas, taking five hours from El Chalten to the base. They soloed all but one pitch. The rock is far from great, but the views and surroundings are five stars.

Descent. Via the Cara Este route.

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Cerro Solo - Southwest face

7. French Connection

600m 55˚ 5

James Monypenny (GB) - Austin Siadak (US), 12/2017.

Description. They approached via Paso de las Agachonas, taking five hours from El Chalten to the base. The initial ice slope is to 60˚, to a first traverse pitch to M3 WI3, a second to WI4 A0, a third to 85˚, then easy snow (to 60˚) to a final steep pitch to M6 A0.

This was Austin’s third new route on Cerro Solo in less than a year. It is a peak that has quite a lot of potential and has been overlooked only because it has some pesky granite spires nearby, but it is a perfect objective when weather and conditions on allow to climb on the pretty nearby granite.

Gear. Five ice-screws, doubles to #1, a couple of triples, six pitons, Stoppers.

Descent. Via the Cara Este route.

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Cerro Solo - Southwest face

8. Los gringos no comen llajua

600m 90˚ M5

James Monypenny (GB), Rodrigo Lobo Villarroel (Bolivia), 1/2018.

Description. Approach via Paso de las Agachonas (5hs from Chalten). The lower portion involves mixed climbing to M5, the middle section 60˚ to 70˚ ice to a 90˚ crux, followed by easy snow to one last steep step (80˚).

They did the first ascent in 19 hs roundtrip from town. The name refers to a chili peppers Bolivian hot sauce.

Gear. Six ice-screws, doubles to #1, a couple of triples, six pitons, Stoppers.

Descent. Via the Cara Este route.

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Cerro Solo - northwest ridge

4. El Dragón

Colin Haley, 1/2016.

Description. Climbs 350 meters of vertical gain with difficulties to 5. The rock quality leaves a lot to be desired for.

History. Colin christened the col at the base Puff-Puff Pass. He free soloed the route.

Descent. Via the Cara Este route.

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Cerro Solo - north side and west ridge

5. Dong Patrol

In late December 2016, Chris Mutzel, Austin Siadak and Jimmy Voorhis climbed a line on the north side and west ridge, climbing several small towers to connect into El Dragón. The rock quality is less-than-perfect, and the steeper pitches are fairly thought-provoking. In all “Dong Patrol” climbs close to 900m of vertical gain, with difficulties to 5+.

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Cerro Solo - east face

6. Wright

In 2004, Cedar Wright (US) climbed the ridge to the left of the glacier, ascending nine small summits, finding very bad rock and difficulties to 5.

 

 

 


Cerro Solo - from the north

Cerro Solo - from the east

Cerro Solo - south and east face

Cerro Solo - south and west face

Cerro Solo - southwest face



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Cerro SoloEast face 1.Cara Este2 Falcone/San Vicente3 Chossopotamia7 French Connection8 Los gringos no comen...4 El Dragón5 Dong Patrol6 Wright

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