Mojón Rojo. 2163 m.

The summit of Mojon Rojo provides excellent views of both the Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy massifs. The east face is a moderate, yet interesting route. It is surprising that this peak does not draw more people, since along with Cerro Solo, Gorra Blanca and Cerro Electrico is one of the best alternatives for fun “classic” mountaineering in the area.

East Face

150m 4 30˚

In 1961 Argentines Cesarino Fava and José Mordini made the first ascent of the peak via its east face.

Description. The climb involves several moderate pitches on firm rock (2 to 4) and an exposed traverse across the west side to reach the summit.

History. The original intention of this expedition was to recover Toni Egger’s body, but large amounts of snow and adverse conditions proved their efforts fruitless. However, they did manage to place a plaque in his memory at the base of Cerro Torre, not far from where he lost his life. The plaque was sent by the SAT from Trento. This expedition was only possible thanks to the help given by Tito Lucchini and Carlo Turrini (for other ascents accomplished during this expedition refer to the bibliography below).

Approach. Campamento Poincenot to Laguna Sucia.

Pro. Glacier travel kit, plus a few stoppers and cams.

Descent. Via the same route.

Bibliography. AAJ 1962 p. 263, CAI-Rivista mensile M 80/5-6 p. 179-180; Alpinisti Italiani nell Mondo, Commissione Centrale delle Pubblicazioni, Club Alpino Italiano 1972/2 p. 838-839; Bolletino SAT 1961/1-2 p. 15; Bolletino SAT 1961/4 p. 13.

West face

300m, 5+, 60˚

Jim Bridwell (USA) and Robert Staszewski (Australia), in late March 1978.

Description. Approach via the Torre valley and climb the couloir just north of the peak (500m 40˚) to where it gets steeper. The following five pitches constitute the crux of the route. Two pitches of ice to 60˚ lead to a slabby ramp and after a loose corner climb easy slabs to one last pitch (5+).

History. It was climbed alpine style in two days. They were supported by Bob Killipand and John Nitschke.

Approach. De Agostini to before Niponinos

Pro. Anything you deem appropriate.

Descent. To the east, to Laguna Sucia?

Bibliography. AAJ 1978 p. 584; Mountain Magazine 55 p. 11.