West Face
1. Belladona
300m 6a A2 60°
Kako Pardiñas and Omar Moscoso (Argentina), 12/2/1994.
Description. Climb to La Brecha as if approaching Fitz Roy. Once in La Brecha, descend about 100 meters and then make a long southbound traverse until you are below Kakito. Climb a prominent crack system for about ten pitches, to reach a shoulder north of the summit. The summit is a compact block, which is apparently climbed by circumventing it on its east and south side.
History. Kako attempted it in 1991 with Jorge Arias from the east side, but the couloir right of Poincenot proved to be too dangerous.
Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior to La Brecha.
Descent. Via the same route.
Bibliography. High Magazine 142 p. 42; AAJ 1994 p. 185.
1.1. Variante de los Boludos
In 2010 Colin Haley (USA) and Rolando Garibotti (Argentina) climbed a line to the right of Belladona, which they joined for the last three pitches. They had hoped to find a faster way to the summit, but blank rock forced them to do several pedulums back to the first ascent line. They reach the base of the summit block, but were unable to find a way up it -they did not look very hard. They descended down the north ridge and west, down the couloir between Kakito and the tower immediately north. |