News and major updates
In mid March 2014 Erich and Stefan Gatt (AT) climbed the fin like tower between Colmillo Norte and Aguja Volonqui which they christened Pizarra Escondida. They called their route "Alfajores, chauras y demás". It follows the Carrington-Rouse to right below the ridge (300m to 60˚) to then head left to the col, climbing two pitches on the east face of the tower (30m 6b, 30m 6b A2) to reach the summit. They rappelled the route. Here.
TEXT MESSAGE WEATHER FORECASTS TO YOUR SAT-PHONE.
If you are planning an expedition or climbing trip somewhere remote and you are taking a satellite phone on your trip, now you don’t have to teach your roommate or parents how to read the NOAA meteograms or the FNMOC maps so they can text message you the forecast. A new service called Forecast2phone.com will send a text message with the weather forecast to your satellite phone. You can choose the type of forecast you want, when the service should start and for how many days the texts will run. The service is ideal for many areas of Patagonia, where you have no other way to access the prized weather information. The service is free for now but in the future there will be a small fee, which will surely be well worth paying.
New lines on Tito Carrasco and Saint-Exúpery and a second sit-start to the Californiana.
Joel Enrico and Adam Ferro climbed a new line on Aguja Tito Carrasco, a tower that has become very popular. Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera and Sylvan Schupbach climbed a new variation to Chiaro di Luna on Aguja Saint-Exúpery and earlier had climbed a sit-start to the Californiana on Cerro Fitz Roy reaching the base via the couloir between Aguja de la Silla and the southwest face of Fitz Roy, following the "approach" of Destreza Criolla then continuing up the couloir to the Col de los Americanos, a line first climbed by Crystal Davis-Robbins and Nico Gutierrez in 2009. Della Bordella, Schiera and Schupbach then climbed the Filo Este of Aguja de la Silla, linking it the next day to the Californiana. In all they covered close to 2000 meters of vertical gain with difficulties to 6a+ C1 and M4/5. In 2002 Dean Potter soloed a different "sit start" to the Californiana, see the "Solo Ascents" section of the Californiana.
The North Pillar Sit Start
Some weeks ago Julian Poush, Kevin Prince and Austin Siadak did the second ascent of The North Pillar Sit Start. This is one of the longest climbs in the area. Siadak who last year also climbed the Care Bear Traverse thinks that the Sit Start is slightly harder and of slightly better quality. They completed the ascent in four days, climbing an important variation starting at the very lowest point of Aguja Mermoz's NW ridge. Description here; photo here.
Cerro Grande - Punta Sordo
Rafael Heer, Juan Jerez and Juan Manuel Raselli did the first ascent of the last unclimbed summit in the west ridge of Cerro Grande, a voluptuously rimed summit. They approached from the west, climbing the long west ridge of Cerro Grande and christened it Punta Sordo.
Cerro Solo correction.
It turns out that Insomnio, a route climbed in 2012 and thought to be new, had been climbed in a very distant 1989. Our apologies to the original first ascensionists.
Aguja Tito Carrasco, El Hombro and Punta de Los Tres Mosqueteros.
Mike Collins and Jonathan Schaffer have climbed several new routes in the Marconi Valley, one on the west face of Aguja Tito Carrasco, another one on El Hombro, a formation just west of Tito Carrasco and one more on the north ridge of Punta de Los Tres Mosqueteros, to the right of the north face of Cerro Domo Blanco. They also made an attempt on the north face of Cerro Domo Blanco proper, but they were turned back by wet rock.
Hard new Fred Nicole problems.
While we patiently and eagerly wait for a new edition of Cesar Acuña's guidebook to the superb bouldering around El Chalten we post a mini-guide to a number of new problems that were opened during this past season. Some of these were opened by Fred Nicole and Toni Lamprecht, two people that have contributed enormously to the activity.
Patagonia Vertical - Updates and corrections - 2012/13.
We have put together a pdf document with updates and corrections to the English language version published in 11/2012. We suggest you print these pages to have them as an appendix to the guidebook.
New routes, variations and significant ascents.
- West face attempt, impressive effort.
- Desarmada, SCUD gets an integral ascent and "joined-existing-line-no-summit-new-route-concept" discussion.
Aguja de la Medialuna
- La Media Docena, a pleasant looking new route on the left side of the face.
Perfil de Indio
- Rime Storm Cowboys, an impressive 80-meter waterfall on the east face.
Cerro Domo Blanco
- Superdomo, never has a new route become so popular so fast.
- Punta de Los Tres Mosqueteros, D'Artagnan, new route and first ascent.
- Punta de Los Tres Mosqueteros, Filo del Tornado, new route.
- Cara Este, the first complete ascent of the peak.
- El Busca Jesus, an alternate finish to Rayuela.
- Aguja Tito Carrasco, three new routes: Atari; Ippon and Halle Berry.
- El Hombro: Free Cowboy Hats, new route.
- Aguja El Tridente, first ascent and two new routes: La Piqueta Voladora and The Secret of the Mountain.
- Cumbrecitas, first ascent of two small summits south of Gran Gendarme.
- Ruleta Trentina, a very dangerous new route.
- El Lobito, new route and the first ascent of the peak to the very top.
Cordón Marconi - Aguja Dumbo
- Vstala Primorska, new route and the first ascent of the peak.
Cerro Marconi Central
- La Superwhillans, a beautiful easy new route and the first ascent of the peak.
Cordón del Cerro Fitz Roy
- The Fitz Traverse, the climb of the season by a long long shot.
- Austin Siadak, Julian Poush and Kevi Prince complete the second ascent of the lengthy North Pillar Sit Start, climbing an important new variation starting at the very toe of the buttress.
Cerro Fitz Roy
- Tango Libre, 450m of new terrain in the lower west pillar connecting to the Afanassieff.
- Bossanova, beautiful line on the west face.
- Klettertren, two variations to the Beger-Jennings route.
- Beger-Jennings, Colin Haley solos the link up with Courrier du Sud and Terre des Hommes in a little over 2 hs.
- So Long Charlie, ice smear variation to the Fowler route.
- Richard-Simmons, classy variation to the Coqueugniot-Guillot.
- Macleod-Muskett, difficult mixed line right of the Amy-Vidailhet.
15/11/2012Patagonia Vertical - en castellano.
Finalmente hemos publicado una versión en castellano de Patagonia Vertical. Requirió mas tiempo y esfuerzo de lo esperado, pero quedo hermosa. Gracias a la experiencia del año pasado hemos podido mejorar significativamente la calidad de impresión en Argentina y esta versión es idéntica en calidad a la versión Europea. Gracias a la gente de Gráfica Pinter y a Juan Laguna de la Revista Kooch por el esfuerzo. En los próximos días estará disponible en los mismos comercios que tuvieron la versión en inglés hasta ahora: en la Capital, Mendoza, Bariloche, Chaltén y Cordoba. También estará disponible a través de esta misma pagina para compras online, con envío gratis a todo Argentina y a países limítrofes.
Banff Mountain Book Competition
A few weeks ago we noted that we had made it into the guidebook category finalists list at the 2013 Banff Mountain Book Competition. Now we are pleased to announce that the jury has given Patagonia Vertical the Guidebook Award! We are incredibly honored and stoked. More info here.
06/10/2013The Mysteries of Rime Mushrooms
Dave Whiteman, Research Professor at the University of Utah and Rolando Garibotti published an article about the mysteries of rime mushrooms in the September issue of the Bulletin of the American Meteorological Society, a peer review journal. Many climbers provided photos and information for this article, see the acknowledgements section of the article. The article can be read HERE.
22/03/20132012-2013 Season Overview
New routes, variations and significant ascents.
- Dulce de Leche, new route
- The Via dei Ragni finally gets its place as the normal route up Torre.
- Directa Huarpe, an impressive new line
- "Fair Means" Corkscrew
- Notti Magiche, new route
- A direct start to the Lüthi-Bresba, the Gunnison Direct.
Agujas CAT, Cuatro Dedos, Atchachila and Pachamama
- Travesía Manos y Mas Manos, seven summits in a row...
Aguja Tito Carrasco
- Zigzag, variation.
Gran Gendarme del Pollone
- No Entiendo, new route
- The Perfekt Day, new route
Aguja Pollone and Cumbre Este
- Sit-Start & Traverse
- La Granja, variation
- Dirigo, new route
- The Gambler variation, Tierra de Traucas
- Hypermermoz, two new variations
- Vol de Nuit to the summit
Cerro Fitz Roy
- Un Mar de Sueños, the new route of the season in this massif.
- El Corazon, second ascent.
- The Real Kekec, new route on Pilar Goretta
- Mate, Porro y Todo los Demás, the girls pull down!
- Guasos on the Rock, a long variation on Pilar Goretta
- Samba do Leao, new route
- Persiguiendo el Avion, new route
- Afanassieff, previously unreported variations and more girls pulling down.
Aguja de la Silla
- Carril Rapido, new route
Aguja Kakito "group"
- Punta Kavarovsk
- Judgement Day, free ascent
Aguja Rafael Juárez
- Los Sanjuaniños, variation
Aguja de l'S
- Carne y Papas, new route
- Besos to Pesos, new route
- El Zorro, major new route
There were a number of serious accidents in the last good weather window. Carlyle Norman lost her life on Exupery, while several people had rockfall related accidents on Innominata and Noruegos. The fact that this has been one of the driest seasons in history has not helped, but some of the accidents should make us pause and rethink our approach and our respect for these peaks. In an area where wall rescues are not available climbing in parties of three to ensure better chances of self rescue should be strongly considered. Let Bernardo and Carlyle's tragic deaths, dying alone while waiting for a rescue that never comes, be a reminder of just how very serious this area is.
© 2012 Rolando Garibotti - Dörte Pietron. All rights
PATAGONIA VERTICAL -
A complete printed
guidebook to the Chaltén
Massif. Winner of the Guidebook Award at the Banff Film and Book Festival. Read more
Una guía completa para
las montañas del Macizo
de El Chaltén. Ganador del Premio a la Mejor Guia de Montaña en el Festival de Cine y Libros de Banff, Canada.
Updates & Corrections
- Aguja Tito Carrasco and "Hombro": more details and route names for the recent new routes:
Free Cowboy Hats
- Cerro Grande.
- We have updated the petition in support of the de-bolting of the Compressor Route to reflect the "Special Mention" that the de-bolting was awarded at the 2013 Piolets d'Or and also to include the support of Ermanno Salvaterra and some considerations that Nico Favresse made in an interview with Desnivel. In english here, en español aquí.
- We have updated the SE Ridge and Compressor Route pages to reflect the "Special Mentions" received at the 2013 Piolet d'Or by the rope teams Kennedy-Kruk and Lama-Ortner, for the first ascent of the SE Ridge, for the de-bolting of the Compressor Route and for the free ascent of the SE Ridge.
- Chalten weather.
- Beger-Jennings Aguja Guillaumet. Earlier in the year a bogus new route claim, full of pretense and then backpedaling.
Earlier in the year we added these four peaks:
- Cerro Buracchio
- Cerro Murallón
- Mariano Moreno
- Riso Patrón.
- Cara Oeste Aguja Tito Carrasco.
- Cara Norte Aguja Tito Carrasco.
- Care Bear, Fitz Roy Traverse, how it got its name.
- Exocet, Standhardt.
- Mot. Mixtas, Standhardt.
- Potter-Davis, Standhardt.
- W face attempts, Egger.
- El Bastardo, Silla.
- North face, Carrasco.
- West face, Carrasco.
- Hist. Interminable, Poince.
- Judgement Day, Poince.
- Southern Cross, Poince.
- Pepe Rayo, Piergiorgio.
- Wormhole Theory, De l'S.
- NW face, Torre.
- Ragni route, Torre.
- Austrian route, Exupery.
- Austrian route, De L'S.
- N Face, Innominata.
- Piola, Innominata.
- Old Sumugglers, Poince.
- Puerta Blanca, Desmo.
- Bonapace attmpt, Silla.
- Royal Flush, Fitz.
- Crux del Sur, Goretta, Fitz.
- Chimichurri, Goretta, Fitz.
- Lindblade-Whimp, Goretta,