Aguja Standhardt - West Face.
Punta Shanti
Punta Shanti is a 500-meter wall attached to Aguja Standhardt’s west face. It was named in memory of Chantal Maudit, a well-known French Himalayan climber, who had visited the Fitz Roy group some years before, and who got killed while attempting to climb Dhaulagiri in May 1998. “Shanti” is the nickname by which Chantal was known.
The Punta Shanti wall finishes at the obvious ramp that slashes from left to right dividing the west face in two tiers (the route “Otra vez” follows this ramp to its very end).
10. Leonardo Da Vinci
600m 6b A2+
David Autheman and Antoine Noury (France), 12/1998.
Description. They climbed 17 pitches to reach the ramp that marks the top of the wall. They did not continue on “for respect and desire of mutilation”(!?). At least one 8mm bolt was placed in every belay.
History. The route was climbed with use of fixed ropes, placed over ten days of a one-month period. The name refers to the nearby La Gioconda, a route climbed just before by Salvaterra and Giovanazzi.
Approach. Paso Marconi to Circo de los Altares or via Niponino and over Col Standhardt.
Descent. The first ascentionists descended the route.
Bibliography. Vertical magazine 116 p. 44-48; Alpi-Rando magazine 213 p. 12; AAJ 1999 p. 336; High magazine 203 p. 83. |
