Aguja Val Biois - East face


2. East Couloir


400m 70°-90°

Patrick Gabarrou, Francois Marsigny and Fred Vimal (France), 9/1/1992, to the ridge.

Description. Climbs an deeply encased goullote in the center of the east face, that reaches the ridge north of the summit pyramid. It involves ten pitches of very fine climbing, six of which are quite steep. At times the goullote is only one meter wide.

History. The first ascent party retreated upon reaching the ridgeline, without continuing on to the summit.

Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior.

Pro. 12 ice screws, plus some rock gear.

Descent. Descend via the same route. Rock anchors are set for 60-meter rappels.

Bibliography. Alp magazine 85 p. 23-24; High magazine 122 p. 11; AAJ 1993 p. 185-186; Vertical magazine 45 p. 84; Desnivel magazine 72 p. 88.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Val Biois east face

Aguja Val Biois east face