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Update: last updated on 23/04/2019.

El Mochito

El Mochito is the smaller wall located right above the Niponino camp. It has a number of routes on it, some dating back to the 80s. There may well be lines that are not included here. Unfortunately record of ascents on this wall has not been kept until recently.

1. Dominguez-Fernández

In 1989 Carlos Domínguez and Mauricio Fernández (AR) climbed a line in the right side, seven pitches, the first 6b, then motsly 5, with one 6a pitch half way up, a dihedral. They rapped the route. A route line or further details are lacking.

2. Campagna

In 2000 Luca Campagna (IT) soloed a line in the center of the face, an obvious corner, six pitches to 5. It was repeated in 2007 by Jorge Ackermann and Lucas Jacobson who climbed a variation on the left, and found the second pitch top be 6b. This could be the same line that Carlos and Mauricio climbed in 1989.

3. No Bad Weather

In 2009 Jeremy Collins, Renan Ozturk and Cedar Wright's (US) climbed this 250-meter line that has difficulties to 6c+. Regarding the name, Cedar wrote: "[we] dedicated it to Roberta Nunes who in her life embodied this positive outlook regardless of what came her way."

4. El Camino del Guerrero

On 1/2019, Matías Korten (AR)l soloed this 280-meter line which has difficulties to 6b A1. He estimates it will go free at 7a, but it requires cleaning. Mati had attempted the line before with a number of partners: Diego Cofone, Agustín Mailing and Tincho Abad. Gear: Double to #3, some triples, one #4, many TUCS, Micro-Stoppers, Stoppers, some pitons. Descent: rappel the route (bring gear to reinforce anchors).

5. Mosca para Mujer

On 2/2019, Vitaliy Musiyenko and Chris Koppl climbed this 350-meter line which has difficulties to 5.7 A3. The first ascent was done in a long day, wearing mountain boots beacause of bad weather. It offers lots of nice cracks but much more cleaning is needed for it to be a good free climb. If cleaned, there would be some "red-pillaresque" splitter pitches. Gear. Triples to #3, doubles to #5, TCUs x 3, Stoppers x 2, Micro-stoppers, Peckers x 9, 2 hooks, cam-hooks, LAs x 2. Descent: rappel the route, each belay has a single bolt and back up gear.

6. Straight outta Nipo

On 2/2019, Chris Koppl soloed this 350-meter line which has difficulties to 5.7 A3+. Chris fixed three pitches then completed the climb in a single 21-hour push. any excellent pitches with splitter cracks and endless beaks. The route is safe from ice fall from above, and all belays have comfortable ledges or stances. Gear: Double TCUs, triples to #3, doubles to #5, Micro-Stoppers, Stoppers, Beaks x 4 ea., LA x 2, cam-hooks. Descent: rappel the route, all anchors have a single bolt but no back up.

7. Luna de Miel

in 2016, Arturo Ceron (ES) and Nathaniel Sydnor (US) climbed a five-pitch line (250m 6c+/7a) on the far left side of the face. The crux is the second pitch. The first two pitches may be often wet, but the the following three are very good. There are seracs right above it, but should ice fall, it goes in the gully to the right. Gear: double TCUs, doubles to #3, one #4, RPs, stoppers.

8. The Long Run

In 2006, when Marko Prezelj, Stephen Koch and Dean Potter climbed The Long Run, a link up of Mochito, Mocho and Cerro Torre, they climbed a line up the far right side of the face (250m 6a).

Photos (click to enlarge)

El Mochito - east & south face

El Mochito - east & south face

El Mochito - southeast face

El Mochito - El camino del guerrero

El Mochito - Mosca para mujer

El Mochito - Straight outta Nipo

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El MochitoEast & SE face 1. Dominguez-Fernandez2. Campagna3. No Bad Weather4. El Camino del Guerrero5. Mosca para Mujer6. Straight outta Nipo7. Luna de Miel8. The Long Run


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