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Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.

Aguja Guillaumet - East face

24. Dirigo

300m 50˚ 6b C1

Pete Fasoldt and Eli Simon (US), 2/2013.

Description. It begins north (right) of the Anker-Piola route and stays south (left) of the Eslovena route. They climbed the route in 8 pitches, with some simul-climbing. Most pitches were in the 6a/b range and went free except for two short sections (3 meters) of C1. The rock was mostly of decent quality with a few sections of kitty litter. On pitch four they climbed onto the east buttress (Eslovena) for about 20m before heading left into more unclimbed terrain. Later in Joins the Anker-Piola (450m altogether).

History. They climbed the route in a day and named it Dirigo which is latin for "I lead", and is the State of Maine's motto.

Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas, or via Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet.

Gear. They carried doubles to #3 and one #4.  

Descent. Ski the Amy-Vidailhet couloir.


Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet east face

Guillaumet east face


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Aguja GuillaumetNorthwest ridge 1. Comesaña-Fonrouge1.1 Rosasco 1.2 Giordani West face2. Polaca20. Anonimo años 8023. Patagonian Werewolfs3. Disfrute la Vida18. Las Vent'uras4. Padrijo21. Tee Pitelka22. Manos al Cielo24. Bossanova5. Rayo de Luz27. Von BürgermeisterSouth ridge6. Travesia Cresta SurCumbre Sur30. Cumbre Sur30.1 Plata o PlomoEast face7. The Gambler19. Let's get Wild8. Beger-Jennings8.1 Courrier du Sud8.2 Terre des Hommes8.3 Klettertren9. Hard Saying not Knowing10. Anker-Piola24. Dirigo11. Eslovena28. ¡Aupa 40!12. Pippo Frasson13. Fowler13.1 So Long Charlie14. Guillot-Conqueugniot14.1 Richard-Simmons29 Pilar del Quinto Sol15. Amy-Vidailhet25. Macleod-MuskettNorth ridge & face16. Brenner-Moschioni16.1 Carlo17. GuillotinaTraverseTravesia Care Bear


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