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Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.

Aguja Guillaumet - East face

9. Hard Saying' not Knowing

350m 75º 6a C2

Kate Rutherford Michael Schaefer (USA) January 2009.

Description. Climbs a angling ramp system that cuts from right to left the bottom of a steep rock face to reach the right side of the big ice face which it climbs via it’s right side to a snow ridge just east of the summit. The first pitch involves an unprotected chimney (5), followed by a hand and finger crack (6a) trending up and left, to a ramp again heading left passing behind a pillar. From here it climbs straight up until the terrain again forces you left, to a short face traverse across a gully leading to a snow-filled corner system. Another ramp leads to a hand crack and a corner. Leading up and left on mixed terrain one reaches an arete that overlooks the Beager-Jennings couloir. A depression higher up involves some manky aid climbing, and gives access to the ice face, which after 150 meters leads to the summit ridge. The first ascent was done in fairly wintery conditions.

History. The first ascent took one day, reaching the summit around midnight. The original intent was to climb the Piola-Anker, but it was too snowy and this line looked like a good alternative.

Approach. Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas, or via Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet.

Descent. Descend via the Amy-Vidailhet couloir.

Bibliography. AAJ 2009 page 208.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet east face

Guillaumet east face

Guillaumet east face

Guillaumet east face

Guillaumet east face

Guillaumet east face


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Aguja GuillaumetNorthwest ridge 1. Comesaña-Fonrouge1.1 Rosasco 1.2 Giordani West face2. Polaca20. Anonimo años 8023. Patagonian Werewolfs3. Disfrute la Vida18. Las Vent'uras4. Padrijo21. Tee Pitelka22. Manos al Cielo24. Bossanova5. Rayo de Luz27. Von BürgermeisterSouth ridge6. Travesia Cresta SurCumbre Sur30. Cumbre Sur30.1 Plata o PlomoEast face7. The Gambler19. Let's get Wild8. Beger-Jennings8.1 Courrier du Sud8.2 Terre des Hommes8.3 Klettertren9. Hard Saying not Knowing10. Anker-Piola24. Dirigo11. Eslovena28. ¡Aupa 40!12. Pippo Frasson13. Fowler13.1 So Long Charlie14. Guillot-Conqueugniot14.1 Richard-Simmons29 Pilar del Quinto Sol15. Amy-Vidailhet25. Macleod-MuskettNorth ridge & face16. Brenner-Moschioni16.1 Carlo17. GuillotinaTraverseTravesia Care Bear


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