home climbing areas field notesknowledgedisclaimercopyrightcontactdonate

Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.

Aguja Guillaumet - East face

10. Anker -

450m 50˚ 6b A0

Daniel Anker and Michel Piola (CH), 12/1/1989.

Description. Follows a discontinuous line of cracks and flakes on the left side of the east buttress, climbing ten pitches on rock that at times is not of the best quality. From the top of the pillar 50º snow leads to the summit.

History. During that visit Piola and Anker waited for good weather in the Piergiorgio valley for about a month, until they run out of time and had to go home. The day they were supposed to leave they changed their minds, and decided to stay an extra ten days. During those ten days, and in spite of mostly bad weather they climbed four new routes, an impressive one on Poincenot, a very enjoyable one on El Mocho, plus one on Innominata and this one of Guillaument. The name of the article Piola wrote for Mountain Magazine back then was “Patagonicos Desesperados”, a name that likely explains well the frustration they so successfully channeled into such a ferocious spree of activity.

Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas, or via Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet.

Descent. Descend via the Amy-Vidailhet couloir.

Bibliography. Mountain 130 p. 20-25; Vertical 32 p. 28-37; AAJ 1990 p. 206-208.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet east face

Guillaumet east face

Guillaumet east face

Guillaumet east face

Guillaumet east face

Guillaumet east face


Please Do Not Reprint This Article
This article is copyrighted. Please do not reprint this article in whole or part, in any form, without obtaining written permission.

if you find any mistakes or if you have additional information, please go to the contact page and let us know.

Aguja GuillaumetNorthwest ridge 1. Comesaña-Fonrouge1.1 Rosasco 1.2 Giordani West face2. Polaca20. Anonimo años 8023. Patagonian Werewolfs3. Disfrute la Vida18. Las Vent'uras4. Padrijo21. Tee Pitelka22. Manos al Cielo24. Bossanova5. Rayo de Luz27. Von BürgermeisterSouth ridge6. Travesia Cresta SurCumbre Sur30. Cumbre Sur30.1 Plata o PlomoEast face7. The Gambler19. Let's get Wild8. Beger-Jennings8.1 Courrier du Sud8.2 Terre des Hommes8.3 Klettertren9. Hard Saying not Knowing10. Anker-Piola24. Dirigo11. Eslovena28. ¡Aupa 40!12. Pippo Frasson13. Fowler13.1 So Long Charlie14. Guillot-Conqueugniot14.1 Richard-Simmons29 Pilar del Quinto Sol15. Amy-Vidailhet25. Macleod-MuskettNorth ridge & face16. Brenner-Moschioni16.1 Carlo17. GuillotinaTraverseTravesia Care Bear


If you find this web page useful, please consider making a donation

Chaltén Massif
Cerro San Lorenzo
Cerro Murallón
Cerro Riso Patron
Cerro Catedral/Frey
Tetons (USA)

Trail restoration work