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News and major updates |
01/01/2012New route on Aguja de L'S
Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed an "Astromanesque" line in the south face. Seven new long pitches on perfect rock. Carrying the lightest bivy gear known to man, two doobies, they fired the route in one late afternoon "stroll", one "high" night and one early morning "punch". This Royal Arches to Astroman line seems well worth a repeat, info here. A few days earlier Hayden and Jason had climbed Torre Egger via Spigolo dei Bimbi on Punta Herron and the Huber-Scharf in 20 some hours round trip descending Titanic. Congrats to them for such impressive ascents!! |
28/12/2011New route on Torre Egger
Norwegians Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Ole Lied climbed an impressive new route in the south face of Torre Egger. The climbing involves much steep ice with sections over 90º that can be best described as the “Ragni route on steroids”. In sport climbing Chris Sharma has used the term “King Line” to describe beautiful lines that stand out because of their unique appeal. Bjorn-Eivind and Ole's still un-named line is most definitely the alpine ice version of a Sharma “King Line”. A very proud line that for its uniqueness may well be the route of the season here in Patagonia. More info here. |
23/12/2011East Face of Fitz Roy climbed
Frenchmen Francois Poncet, Remy Stelio and Jerome Sullivan climbed the lower part of the East Pillar route (Ferrari), then traversed over to climb along Royal Flush and El Corazon to the summit. They completed the ascent in alpine style, taking three days up and down. This is only the 4th alpine style ascent of Fitz Roy's East face after Tommy Caldwell, Topher Donahue and Erik Roed "team free" onsight ascent of Linea de Eleganza, Jimmy Haden and Mike Pennings ascent of Royal Flush, and Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva's onsight ascent of the Ferrari-Corazon link up. |
20/12/2011Fuck Slacklines
In 2010 a group of climbers placed a slack line between the summit of M2 and Abuelo, in Frey, Cerro Catedral, Bariloche. To set it up they placed 3 new bolts in the middle of the second pitch of Conflicto de Generaciones, the first route that Michel Piola opened in the area, the first in the area to be bolted ground up, the first step in a climbing renaissance in Argentina. That the character of a historic route like that would get changed for the sake of a slack line is sad. That this would take place at the hands of well-known climbers is even sadder. Two of the bolts were chopped, now just one remains. Fuck slacklines is right! |
18/12/2011Aguja Bifida and Guillaumet
Rubita and Oriol's new route on Bifida here, Roger and Simon's new route on Guillaumet here. Korra Pesce did the first solo ascent of the Brenner route on Guillaumet. Jens Holsten, Joel Kauffman and Mikey Schaefer climbed a new route on Poincenot's southwest face. More info on this in the next few days. |
11/11/2011Rock Master Frey
Este verano prepará zapatillas, magnesio y crash-pad, se viene el evento deportivo/cultural del mundo, boulder y vías, música en vivo, asado bajo las estrellas y la mejor onda.
Organizan Los Escaladores de Frey. Click. |
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© 2010 Rolando Garibotti.
All rights reserved. |
Updates:
03/01/2012
- La Gran Diagonal, Mermoz.
- Chilensis Variation,
Innominata.
- Winter link-up, Egger.
- Martin-O'Neill, Egger
01/01/2012
- Californian route, Fitz Roy.
- Blood on the Tracks,
Innominata.
- Bonapace-Hevia,
Innominata.
24/12/2011
- Rise of the Machines,
Aguja Poincenot.
12/12/2011
- Chiaro di Luna, Aguja Saint Exupery.
- Anglo-American,
Innominata.
- Como no!, Innominata.
15/11/2011
- Witches Brew, Gran
Gendarme del Pollone.
09/11/2011
- The Washington Route, Fitz Roy.
- Las Vent'uras, Guillaumet.
- The Pollone Traverse,
Cerro Pollone.
- The Vertical Current, Aguja de la Silla.
After a long hiatus more
updates and corrections
coming soon. |
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