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CERRO PAINE GRANDE19/05/2016

Cerro Paine Grande is the tallest and bulkiest peak in the Torres del Paine National Park. It has been climbed only four times: 1957, 2000, 2011 and 2016. It certainly deserves far more attention. The purpose of this write-up is to give a quick overview of what has been done. There are still a few things that require sorting, particularly the line followed by the Japanese expedition back in 1969. Read on.

29/03/20162015-2016 Season

Agujas del Río Túnel
- Aguja T48, M23
- Aguja Lise ("2"), El dealer de la bicicleta
- Aguja Leo ("5"), La vida boba

Cerro Grande - Punta Mini Torre
- Rimeflow in Zuckerwatteland

Cerro Solo
- El Dragón, new route on the northwest ridge.

Cerro Adela
- Balas y Chocolate, new route on the east face of Cerro Adela Norte & Col de la Esperanza.

El Mocho
- First solo ascent of Voie des Benitiers by Marc-Andre Leclerc.
- The Approach Line team, new route on the north face.

El Mochtio
- La Luna de Miel, new route on the far left side.

Aguja de la Medialuna
- Third solo ascent of Rubio y Azul by Marc-Andre Leclerc.

Cerro Torre
- Second ascent and first one day ascent of the Torre Traverse! Colin Haley and Alex Honnold tear it up.
- Filo Sureste, Andrew Rothner, Mikey Schaefer and Josh Wharton complete the second free ascent and three other parties repeated the route via the Haston crack (aid).
- Via dei Ragni, second solo winter attempt, after Colin Haley in August of 2014, now it was Markus Pucher's turn to battle rime and brittle ice. It remains to be seen if this route will ever be soloed in "virgin" condition. The difference between being the first party in months to climb it and climbing it behind others, is night and day.

Torre Egger
- Psycho Vertical. second ascent, first alpine style ascent for Tomas Aguilo, Korra Pesce and Roli Striemitzer, followed by Iñaki Coussirat and Carlitos Molina.
- Colin Haley completed the first solo ascent of Punta Herron and Torre Egger via Spigolo dei Bimbi and the Huber-Schnarf.

Aguja Standhardt
- Tomahawk and Exocet link-up free-soloed by Marc-Andre Leclerc.
- "Motivaciones Mixtas" into Exocet.

Aguja Bifida - South summit
- The Siren thirteen new pitches into Cogan.

Punta Filip
- Shelter from the Cow, Eli and Pete narrowly escape certain death in the jaws of a mama cow...

Aguja Pachamama
- Ziggy Stardust, the late David Bowie gets a route named in his memory.

Cerro Piergiorgio
- Skull Fuck, new route on the west face.
- Pilar Canino, new route on the west face.

Cerro Pollone
- Rayuela to Mastica e Sputa link-up free-soloed by Marc-Andre Leclerc.
- Escama de Dragón, new route on the north face.

Punta Amistad
- Alegria, first ascent of a small pinacle south of Aguja Tito Carrasco

Aguja Tridente.
- Knob-mania, hard new route on the west face.

Colmillo Central
- Mantetang new route on Colmillo Central and attempt on Colmillo Sur.
- Anonima sequestri, the first ascent of Colmillo Sur.

Aguja Volonqui
- Chorblito new route on the east face.

Torre Volonqui
- Voluntad y cuidado, first ascent of a small tower north of Aguja Volonqui

Aguja Dumbo
- New route: André y Sophie.

Cerro Fitz Roy
- The Wave Effect Direct, Desmochada-Silla-Fitz all free in 17hs, another mindblowing ascent from Colin Haley and Alex Honnold.
- The Colorado Route climbs one of the most striking splitters in the entire massif.
- Pretty Bird, major new route in the north face by Pete Fasoldt and Jonathan Schaffer.
- Asado, new route on the south face by Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smoleň.
- Colin Haley and Andy Wyatt smashed the car-to-car record, completing it in 21:08 hs, climbing via the Supercanaleta.
- Second ascent of the Pilar Este route, in alpine style, for David Bacci and Matteo Della Bordella.
- El Corazón, first one day ascent.
- Variante Chilota to the Californiana.

Aguja de l'S
- Los del Maipo, new route on the west face.

"Campo de Hielo Sur"
- Cerro Riso Patrón Central, Lise Billon, Antoine Moineville, Diego Simari and Jerome Sullivan opened “Hasta las Webas”, a new route in the east face (1000m ED-).

Cerro San Lorenzo
- No Fiesta on the southeast face, left of the east ridge.
- Couloir climbed between Pilar Sur and Cumbre Buscaini.
- Haba-Tar, new route on the southwest face.

CERRO CATEDRAL - FREY03/01/2016

La sección de Cerro Catedral - Frey ha sido completamente actualizada, incluyendo agujas recientemente exploradas, nuevas vías y los foto-topos de la guía publicada en fin del 2014.

También hemos creado una página con las correcciones y actualizaciones a la guía. A todo aquel que este por visitar Frey le sugerimos imprimir el pdf y agregarlo a su copia de la guía.

Topónimos / Toponyms

Antes de dar nombres a accidentes geográficos (cumbres, puntas, coles, etc) sugiero leer este artículo por Evelio Echevarria, un andinista chileno que lleva más de 50 años explorando y documentando la actividad de montaña a lo largo de los Andes.

Before giving toponyms to any geographic point (summits, sub-summits, saddles, etc) I suggest reading this article by Evelio Echevarria, a chilean climber and explorer that has dedicated much of his life to exploring and documenting ascents across the Andes.

13/02/20152014-2015 Season

Cerro Torre
- Via dei Ragni, second free-solo ascent, Markus Pucher's specialty. A lengthy account here.
- Travesía del Oso Buda. In yet another brillant display of his skill, motivation and drive Colin Haley, together with Marc-André Leclerc traversed the Cerro Torre group again, this time from south to north, in reverse. One could reasonably argue that Colin now "owns" the Cerro Torre group. It will be hard to dethrone this one as the climb of the season.
- Directa de la Mentira. Colin Haley and Marc-André Leclerc, the two fittest and hungriest men here at this moment, "the unstoppable two", just did the first "complete" (bottom to top) ascent of the north face, climbing El Arca to the Egger-Torre col ("Col de la Mentira" in Haley's words), to then climb six new pitches up a beautiful line parallel and to the left of the north ridge, joining back with El Arca on the last four pitches of the north face. This comes barely a week and some days after they completed the first ascent of La Travesía del Oso Buda. They are on fire!!
- Colin Haley and Alex Honnold come mighty close to doing the second ascent of the Travesía del Torre, renouncing two pitches below the summit of Cerro Torre after merely 20 hours of climbing. The Torre Traverse is now a "day climb"!
- Marc-André Leclerc brought down the house with a solo of the Corkscrew. A solo of this magnitude is probably only second to Renato Casarotto’s ("God with a mustache") first ascent of Fitz Roy’s north pillar.
- Caroline North and Christina Huber did the first female team ascent of the Via dei Ragni.
- Luka Lindic, Luka Krajnc and Tadej Krišelj traversed the three Adelas and went on to climb the Via dei Ragni, repeating a good portion of the Travesía Adelas a Torre.
- The Sysphus myth is in full effect on Cerro Torre: Elio Orlandi continues his ten year quest to climb a line on the east face, while Thomas Huber makes another attempt on the Travesía del Torre.

Punta Herron
- Tobogán, first integral ascent (photo).

Torrisimo
- Torrisimo attempts to messure up to "Donini's Anatomy". First ascent by Colin Haley and Jon Schaffer.

Cerro Domo Blanco
- Pilastro Rampagaroi, Amico Vento, Amica Luna

Cordón del Cerro Pollione
- Gran Gendarme to Tridente Sur traverse.

Gran Gendarme del Pollone
- No Entiendo variantion.

Aguja Pollone
- Alternate Sit Start from the very bottom of the east butress.

Cerro Marconi Sur
- Into the Wild, Markus Pucher climbs a new route in the west face, second ascent of the peak, second solo ascent of the peak.

Cerro Fitz Roy
- The lower half of Pilar Este gets clean up.
- Amaro Vecchia Romana, variation to Crux del Sur on Pilar Goretta.

Aguja Guillaumet
- Von Bürgermeister, new route on the west face.

Aguja Poincenot
- John Henry, new line on the north face.
- Invisible Line, new line in the northeast face.

Aguja Saint-Exupery
- Chiaro di Luna, first and second free-solo ascents

Aguja Rafael Juarez
- West Ridge, a line up to it from the north

Mojón Rojo
- Blockbuster, new route on the west face

"Hielo Continental"
- Riso Patrón, a team approached the base of the west face of Cumbre Sur from the west. Updated heights.
- Cerro Buracchio, first ascent and some new details regarding the original name. Updated height.

 

03/03/20142013-2014 Season

New routes, variations and significant ascents.

Cerro Grande
- Punta Sordo first ascent of the last unclimbed summit in the west ridge of Cerro Grande.

Torre Egger
-
West face attempt, impressive effort.

Aguja Standhardt
- Desarmada, SCUD gets an integral ascent and "joined-existing-line-no-summit-new-route-concept" discussion.

Aguja de la Medialuna
- La Media Docena, a pleasant looking new route on the left side of the face.

Perfil de Indio
- Rime Storm Cowboys, an impressive 80-meter waterfall on the east face.

Cerro Domo Blanco
- Superdomo, never has a new route become so popular so fast.
- Punta de Los Tres Mosqueteros, D'Artagnan, new route and first ascent.
- Punta de Los Tres Mosqueteros, Filo del Tornado, new route.

Cerro Piergiorgio
- Cara Este, the first complete ascent of the peak.

Cerro Pollone
- El Busca Jesus, an alternate finish to Rayuela.

Pollone Group
- Aguja Tito Carrasco: new routes: Atari; Ippon, Halle Berry and Terroir.
- El Hombro: Free Cowboy Hats, new route.
- Aguja El Tridente, first ascent and two new routes: La Piqueta Voladora and The Secret of the Mountain.
- Cumbrecitas, first ascent of two small summits south of Gran Gendarme.

Cerro Rincón
- Ruleta Trentina, a very dangerous new route.

Pizarra Escondida
- Alfajores, chauras y demás.

Aguja Volonqui
- El Lobito, new route and the first ascent of the peak to the very top.

Cordón Marconi - Aguja Dumbo
- Vstala Primorska, new route and the first ascent of the peak.

Cerro Marconi Central
- La Superwhillans, a beautiful easy new route and the first ascent of the peak.

Cordón del Cerro Fitz Roy
- The Fitz Traverse, the climb of the season by a long long shot.

Cerro Fitz Roy
- Austin Siadak, Julian Poush and Kevi Prince climbed an important variation to the North Pillar Sit Start.
- Tango Libre, 450m of new terrain in the lower west pillar connecting to the Afanassieff.
- Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera and Sylvan Schupbach climbed a sit-start to the Californiana.

Aguja Guillaumet
- Bossanova, beautiful line on the west face.
- Klettertren, two variations to the Beger-Jennings route.
- Beger-Jennings, Colin Haley solos the link up with Courrier du Sud and Terre des Hommes in a little over 2 hs.
- So Long Charlie, ice smear variation to the Fowler route.
- Richard-Simmons, classy variation to the Coqueugniot-Guillot.
- Macleod-Muskett, difficult mixed line right of the Amy-Vidailhet.

Aguja Saint-Exupery
- Can Accompany Only, new variation to Chiaro di Luna.


22/03/20132012-2013 Season Overview

New routes, variations and significant ascents.

El Mocho
- Dulce de Leche, new route

Cerro Torre
- The Via dei Ragni finally gets its place as the normal route up Torre.
- Directa Huarpe, an impressive new line
- "Fair Means" Corkscrew

Torre Egger
-
Notti Magiche, new route.

Aguja Bifida
- A direct start to the Lüthi-Bresba, the Gunnison Direct.

Agujas CAT, Cuatro Dedos, Atchachila and Pachamama
- Travesía Manos y Mas Manos, seven summits in a row...

Aguja Tito Carrasco
- Zigzag, variation.

Gran Gendarme del Pollone
- No Entiendo, new route
- The Perfekt Day, new route

Aguja Pollone and Cumbre Este
- Sit-Start & Traverse
- La Granja, variation

Aguja Guillaument
- Dirigo, new route
- The Gambler variation, Tierra de Traucas

Aguja Mermoz
- Hypermermoz, two new variations
- Vol de Nuit to the summit

Cerro Fitz Roy
- Un Mar de Sueños, the new route of the season in this massif.
- El Corazon, second ascent.
- The Real Kekec, new route on Pilar Goretta
- Mate, Porro y Todo los Demás, the girls pull down!
- Guasos on the Rock, a long variation on Pilar Goretta
- Samba do Leao, new route
- Persiguiendo el Avion, new route
- Afanassieff, previously unreported variations and more girls pulling down.

Aguja de la Silla
- Carril Rapido, new route

Aguja Kakito "group"
- Punta Kavarovsk

Aguja Poincenot
- Judgement Day, free ascent

Aguja Rafael Juárez
- Los Sanjuaniños, variation

Aguja de l'S
- Carne y Papas, new route
- Besos to Pesos, new route

Mojón Rojo
- El Zorro, major new route

© 2016 Rolando Garibotti & Dörte Pietron.

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PATAGONIA VERTICAL -
Macizo de El Chaltén

A complete guidebook to the Chaltén Massif. Winner of the Guidebook Award at the Banff Film and Book Festival. Read more

Una guía completa para
las montañas del Macizo
de El Chaltén. Ganador del Premio a la Mejor Guia de Montaña en el Festival de Cine y Libros de Banff, Canada. La edición en castellano esta agotada. Apenas reimprimamos les haremos saber.
Mas información

PATAGONIA VERTICAL -
Cerro Catedral - Frey

Guía completa para
las agujas del Cerro Catedral, zona del Refugio Emilio Frey, Bariloche. Más información

A complete guidebook to the towers of Cerro Catedral, area of Refugio Emilio Frey, Bariloche.
More information

Updates & Corrections

26/6/2016
- Some corrections to the Cerro Paine Grande page courtesy of Hilton Davies.

10/3/2016
- Otra actualización de la sección sobre el Cerro Colorado. Gracias Jerome Sullivan y Martin Lopez Abad! Updates to the Cerro Colorado page.

27/2/2016
- Cerro Ñire, in 1986 Maurizio Giordani climbed a previously unreported pillar.
- Updates a la sección sobre el Cerro Colorado. Updates to the Cerro Colorado page.

18/02/2016
- Desmochada's Golden Eagle down to 6c.

21/1/2016
- Updates a la sección sobre el Cerro Colorado. Updates to the Cerro Colorado page.

17/1/2016
- previously unreported 2012 variation to the Californiana, the Variante Suiza climbs six new pitches up and right of the original line.

5/11/2015
- updated Cerro Buracchio & Cordón Riso Patrón.
- updated Cerro Regreso on Cordón Mariano Moreno.

26/10/2015
Más updates a la nueva página sobre el Cerro Colorado. More updates to the new Cerro Colorado page.

24/10/2015
- updated Cerro Buracchio & Cordón Riso Patrón.
- updated Cerro Regreso on Cordón Mariano Moreno.

16/10/2015
- Another update on Mochito.
- Cerro Marconi Sur, Into the Wild
- Updated more details about Hasta las Webas on Riso Patrón.

12/10/2015
- El Mochito first attempt to start recording the routes in this small wall.
- Updated Torrisimo
- Updated first attempt info regarding Notti Magiche.

11/10/2015
- Updated the Cerro San Lorenzo page to reflect recent attempts and ascents.

10/10/2015
- Fixed the broken links in the weather forecasting section.
- Updated the "knowledge" section, linking a number of articles that are reffered to elsewhere in this website.
- Updated the "Access" section of the Field Notes, to add a number of links to more recent discussions.

08/03/2014
- Aguja Tito Carrasco and "Hombro": more details and route names for the recent new routes:
Atari
Ippon
Halle Berry
Free Cowboy Hats

3/03/2014
- Cerro Grande.

26/12/2013
- We have updated the petition in support of the de-bolting of the Compressor Route to reflect the "Special Mention" that the de-bolting was awarded at the 2013 Piolets d'Or and also to include the support of Ermanno Salvaterra and some considerations that Nico Favresse made in an interview with Desnivel. In english here, en español aquí.

26/12/2013
- We have updated the SE Ridge and Compressor Route pages to reflect the "Special Mentions" received at the 2013 Piolet d'Or by the rope teams Kennedy-Kruk and Lama-Ortner, for the first ascent of the SE Ridge, for the de-bolting of the Compressor Route and for the free ascent of the SE Ridge.

Recent articles and other

__________________________________________

Remembering Marco Pedrini8/09/2015

Ian Parnell interviews Romolo Nottaris. Read on.

__________________________________________

Completing the Puzzle2/2015

Over the past four decades, Cesare Maestri's claimed ascent of Cerro Torre in 1959 with Toni Egger has been widely discredited. An abundance of evidence has shown that their high point was only a quarter of the way up. What has remained a mystery is where they actually went during the seven days that Maestri said their round trip required, and from which Egger never returned. New information gives us unequivocal proof of a place they visited that, curiously, Maestri never mentioned and that is nowhere near his claimed ascent, and certainly no place one would unintentionally wander or forget. Read on

Addendum. Cesare Maestri's response has been predictable, if not sad.

Second addendum. Bruno Detassis detailed report: no mention of an outing to the col north of Col Standhardt in this report or in any of the extensive bibliography of the expedition.

___________________________________________

Peak lists. Your pick, your peaks.3/1//2015

There have been various peak lists claims over the years. Here is a look at the possible peak lists of the Fitz Roy Range and the Cerro Torre group. Continue reading.

___________________________________________

Gestión de Riesgo - Risk Management17/12//2014

El gran número de accidentes que ocurren en comparación al número de usuarios es preocupante. Acá presentamos un primer intento a una ayuda memoria sobre los puntos a tomar en consideración antes de embarcarse en una ascensión. Sugerimos también leer las paginas de la guía relacionadas con “como sobrevivir” y rescates. En español pdf aca.

The huge number of accidents that have been happening in comparison to the number of users is worrisome. Here we present a first attempt at a list of considerations to take into account before embarking on a climb. We also suggest reading carefully the pages of the guidebook that relate to staying alive and rescue. English pdf here.

___________________________________________

Patagonia Vertical - Updates and corrections - 2012/13.

We have put together a pdf document with updates and corrections to the English language version published in 11/2012. We suggest you print these pages to have them as an appendix to the guidebook.

___________________________________________

Banff Mountain Book Competition - Guidebook Award!

Patagonia Vertical won the 2013 Guidebook Award at the Banff Mountain Film Festival's Book Competition. More info here.

___________________________________________

The Mysteries of Rime Mushrooms 6/10//2013

Dave Whiteman, Research Professor at the University of Utah and Rolando Garibotti published an article about the formation of rime mushrooms in the September issue of the Bulletin of the American Meteorological Society, a peer review journal. Many climbers provided photos and information for this article, see the acknowledgements section of the article. The article can be read here.

___________________________________________

More "articles" here.


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CLIMBING AREAS
Chaltén Massif
Cerro San Lorenzo
Cerro Murallón
Cerro Riso Patron
Cerro Catedral/Frey
Tetons (USA)

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