Aguja Saint-Exupery - Southwest face


7. Last Gringo Standing


500m 6c A1

Toby Grohne and Jesse Huey (USA), 3/2008.

Description. Climbs three perfect cracks pitches to a dike (6b), where a 20-meter long traverse left (6a) gives access to a four-pitch long crack system that leads to the Austrian route.

History. The first ascentionists bivied at the notch between the false summit (Punta Cristina) and summit. The name of the route refers to the fact that they were the last foreign climbers to leave the Albergue Lago del Desierto campground that season.

Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to Polacos. Climb a right leaning ramp crossing the Innominata couloir, to a couloir at the base of the west face and the base of the route.

Pro. ?

Descent. Via the Austrian line or Chiaro di Luna.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Saint-Exupery southwest face

Saint-Exupery west face