Aguja Saint-Exupery, Innominata and Poincenot


Copp-Wharton Traverse


1850m 6c

Jonathan Copp and Josh Wharton (USA), 18-20/2/2006.

Description. Jonny and Josh traversed agujas Saint Exupery, Innominata and Poincenot in a 52-hour round trip from Polacos camp. They climbed Saint-Exupery via Chiaro di Luna (750m, 6c) and descended along the north ridge to gain the ridge connecting Saint-Exupery with Innominata. After a few spectacular but moderate pitches along the knife-edge ridge they bivied just below Innominata’s upper spire. In the morning they climbed the remaining pitches (200m 6c) to the summit via the Anglo-American route and descended along the same route to reach the base of Poincenot’s south face. Here they turned their attention to the Fonrouge-Rosasco route (900m, 6c). After another bivouac at the juncture of the Carrington-Rouse and the Fonrouge-Rosasco, they reached the summit of Poincenot early the next morning and descended (via the Carrington-Rouse) to Polacos.

History. Since Josh and Jonny’s traverse the Saint-Exupery to Innominata traverse has been repeated a few times in both directions but the complete “Sex-inno-po” traverse still awaits a second ascent.

Approach. As for Chiaro di Luna.

Pro. Two each to camalot # 4, nuts.

Descent. Any Poincenot descent you prefer.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Copp-Wharton Traverse

Saint-Exupery - Chiaro di Luna

Aguja Innominata - Anglo-American

Aguja Poincenot, Fonrouge-Rosasco

and Carrington-Rouse