Aguja Innominata - West face
5. Corallo
450m 7b
Ermanno Salvaterra and Fabio Leoni (Italy), 12/2/1994.
Description. This very sustained 14-pitch route was climbed alpine style, in just one day, and went all-free except for two moves. It climbs the obvious dihedral in the center of the West face. The rock is slightly flaky on the main corner and the upper part sports some wide cracks for which you might want to bring big camalots. 14 pitches total.
History. In November 1994 Ermanno Salvaterra and Maurizio Giordani (I) attempted a line slightly more to the right, but were forced to retreat due to the lack of adequate equipment for the type of terrain encountered (thin cracks/difficult aid). The first ascentionists named the route after the coral colored rock on the upper left side of the face, and dedicated the route to the memory of Toni Egger.
Free ascent. In early 2010 north-american Ben Ditto made the first free ascent of the route.
Approach. De Agostini to Niponinos to Polacos.
Pro. Standard rack plus some wide pieces for the wide cracks, double 4s?
Descent. Via the Anglo-American route.
Bibliography.
Rivista Alp 111 p.18; AAJ 1995 p. 208-209; High 142 p. 42-43; Desnivel 96 p. 93; Annales GHM 1994-95 p.13, p. 54; Rivista della Montagna 167 p. 8; Bolletino della SAT 1994/2 p. 30-31.
|