Aguja de la Silla - Northwest face


1. East Ridge


250m 6a A1

Horacio Bresba (Argentina) and Pedro Lüthi (Switzerland), 21/2/1989.

Description. This was the first ascent route. It climbs five pitches, first on the north face then on the east ridge. The technical climbing starts at the col between a small Gendarme and the tower itself, just south of the start for the Californian route on Fitz. A 50-meter long pitch leads up good cracks on the north face, to a recess on the crest. From this point stay left (south) of the crest all the way to the summit blocks that are reached after three easy pitches. The first one of these is climbed via a chimney on the east side and the second up a wide crack on its south side.

History. It was repeated once. Peter also made the first ascent of Aguja Bifida and of the south summit of Guillaumet. He came close to making the first ascent of Standhardt as well. He lived in Argentina for over 20 years and was a very strong influence on many young climbers. Now he is living back in his home town of Saint Moritz, but only until the world ends, which if Pedro’s predictions are correct should happen sometime soon.

Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior to La Brecha to the Col de los Americanos, between Fitz Roy’s south face and Aguja de la Silla.

Pro. Bring some big size camalots.

Descent. Via the same route.

Bibliography. Club Andino Bariloche-Revista 1989/21 p. 32-34; AAJ 1990 p. 206. Annales GHM 1990 p. 53.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja de la Silla northwest face

Aguja de la Silla southeast face

Aguja de la Silla southeast face