Aguja de la Silla - South face


4. El Bastardo


1200m (600m new) 6b/c A0

Alexander and Thomas Huber (Germany), Mario Walder (East Tyrol), and Stephan Siegrist (Switzerland), 1/2008.

Description. In the lower part, on the west face, the route follows Puerta Blanca, a route climbed previously by Alexander on Aguja Desmochada. At the col between the two towers, they moved east, to the base of a massive crack system on the steep south face of De la Silla. The first 300m are really steep and the climbing is dominated by dihedrals and some really long off-widths. Most of it can be climbed free, but due to icy conditions the first ascentionists aided a few short sections. The summit is reached after 12 pitches.

History. The route was climbed alpine style over two days. Supposedly the name refers to Mario, who wasn’t baptized by the priest of his hometown because he was born to a single mother. Alex and Mario had tried this line one year earlier.

Approach. De Agostini to Niponinos to Polacos. See Puerta Blanca route on Desmochada for the “approach” to the base of the route.

Pro. Triple set to camalot # 5?

Descent. Via the same route.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja de la Silla south face

Aguja de la Silla south face

Aguja de la Silla southeast face

Aguja de la Silla soutwest face

Aguja de la Silla southeast face