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Update: last updated on 13/10/2015.

Fitz Roy - North face

13. Clínica de Aventura

350m + 400m 30˚ 6c

Jorge Ackermann, Luciano Fiorenza and Matias Villavicencio (Argentina), 3/2010, to the NW ridge, 350m below the top.

Description. This route climbs a line to the far left of Tehuelche, just right of the Francesa Cara Norte with which it shares six pitches before reaching the Grand Hotel (15 pitches to there). From the Grand Hotel walk down snowy ramps crossing Tehuelche, El Flaco and the Hoser Chimney to a crack system to the right of the Hoser. This crack system involves a fair bit of off-width climbing leading to a roof and a long traverse to the right followed by a chimney that can be avoided by climbing the face to the side. Once at the NW ridge traverse the ridge eastwards to join the Hoser Chimney route (13 more pitches for this upper section), some 350 meters below the summit. The two variations that this line climbs involve a total of 22 new pitches combining various other routes.

History. The route was climbed over three days, one day to the Grand Hotel, a rest day there due to bad weather and a third day to reach the NW ridge from where, upon joining the Hoser Chimney 350 meters below the summit, the first ascentionists retreated, rappeling down the Hoser to the Grand Hotel. It still awaits a integral ascent to the summit.

Approach. Paso Cuadrado and Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte.

Descent. If you go to the top the best option is to descend via the Franco-Argentina however, if you leave gear at the Grand Hotel or at the base of the wall on the north side descend via the upper portion of the Filo Noroeste (Afanassieff), then along the Francesa Cara Norte to the Grand Hotel and from there via Tehuelche back to the ground.

Photos (click to enlarge)


Fitz Roy north and west face

Clinica de Aventura

Fitz Roy north face

Clinica de Aventura

Fitz Roy north face

Clinica de Aventura

Fitz Roy north face

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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up


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