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Update: last updated on 08/03/2014.

Aguja Mermoz NW ridge - Cerro Fitz Roy Goretta pillar

North Pillar Sit Start link-up

Filo Noroeste on Mermoz to Goretta Pillar link-up

1900m 6c C1

Scott Bennett and Cheyne Lempe (USA), 01/2012.

Description. Climbs the Filo Noroeste of Mermoz to then traverse south along the ridge, along the Care Bear traverse, past two small summits and passing Aguja Val Biois by its west side to reach the col del Bloque Empotrado at the base of the Goretta pillar, which was climbed via the Casarotto with the Kearney-Knight variation to the summit. The first ascensionists climbed a significant variation at the start of Mermoz's Filo Noroeste, climbing over 500 meters of new terrain.

History. This linkup was completed alpine style with three bivies, one half way up Mermoz's Filo Noroeste, another at the base of Aguja Val Biois and one more at the col between the Goretta pillar and upper Fitz Roy headwall.

This was the first continuous ascent of Mermoz's Filo Noroeste, which had been climbed in two sections by Slovenes Zlatko Koren and Vasja Kosuta ten years earlier.

This is one of the longest link-ups in the massif, covering similar vertical gain to climbs like the Travesía Care Bear, the Travesía de las Torres and The Wave Effect.

In 2014 Julian Poush, Kevin Prince and Austin Siadak completed the second ascent climbing an important variation at the start, climbing from the lowest point of Aguja Mermoz's NW ridge. This low start is the recommended start. Poush, Prince and Siadak completed the ascent in the same time as Bennett and Lempe, in four days, bivouacking in the same spots.

Approach. Paso Cuadrado to Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte.

Descent. Francesa.


Photos (click to enlarge)

Fitz Sit Start

The North Pillar Sit Start


Mermoz northwest ridge


Mermoz northwest ridge


Fitz Roy north pillar

North Pillar

Fitz Roy north pillar


Fitz Roy north pillar, upper part


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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up


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