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Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.

Fitz Roy - West face

20. Historia sin Fin

850m 40˚ 6b+

Jorge Ackermann, Tomas Aguilo and Luciano Fiorenza (Argentina), 2/2010.

Description. The route starts right of a steep buttress just to the right of Supercanaleta’s bergschrund. Six pitches up and left, the last one in common with Ensueño, lead to a big ledge. From the ledge, where Ensueño heads left climb the left crack of a steep double crack system to a series of slabs. Here, three pitches from the ledge the route touches Ensueño again before heading right, climbing flakes and cracks immediately left of a scoop like system. Ten more pitches lead to easier ground, where the route joins No Brain No Pain and later Tonta Suerte and the Supercanaleta. Some of the rock is grainy but most of it is ok, offering fun free climbing. The climbing along the ridge, along Tonta Suerte and Supercanaleta is interesting, requiring weaving around gendarmes and other alpine trickery. Of the 40 pitches required to go from the bottom to summit (1600m altogether) 18 are unique to this route, the rest are from three other climbs that are joined along the way.

History. The route was climbed in alpine style over three days, one from Chalten to the big ledge six pitches up, another to the junction with No Brain No Pain and a third to reach the summit and descend the Franco-Argentina.

Approach. Paso Cuadrado to Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte.

Gear. The first ascent party used no pitons and placed a single, at a belay.

Descent. Via the Francesa.

Photos (click to enlarge)

North face

Fitz Roy north and west face

West face

Fitz Roy west face

West face

Fitz Roy west face

West face

Fitz Roy west face

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Cerro Fitz RoySoutheast face1. Francesa 1.1 Franco-Argentina link-up 2. Línea Hermanos Gallego 3. Nott-Reichert attempt28. Un Mar de Sueños East face 4. Pilar Este 5. Royal Flush 6. El Corazón 7. Línea de Eleganza 8. Hudičeva Zajeda - Diedro del Diablo Goretta (north) pillar 30. The Real Kekec9. Casarotto 9.1 Diedro Directo 9.2 Kearney-Knight 9.3 Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas9.4 Lindblade-Whimp 9.5 Gringos Perdidos9.6 Acceso Oeste9.7 Crux del Sur9.8 Amaro Vecchia Romana10. Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás10.1 Guasos on the Rock27. Al Abordaje! North face 11. Polaca 12. Francesa Cara Norte 13. Clínica de Aventura29. Samba do Leao14. Tehuelche 14.1 The Hoser Chimney 15. El Flaco con Domingo 31. Persiguiendo el Avión16. Pretty Bird West face 17. Filo Noroeste, Afanassieff 17.1 Los Últimos Días del Paraíso17.2 Le Chercheur d'Absolu 17.3 Attempt 17.4 Rocamora-Tarditti 17.5 Tango Libre 18. Supercanaleta 18.2 No Brain, No Pain 19. Ensueño20. Historia sin Fin Southwest face 21. Eslovaca 22. Tonta SuerteSouth face 23. Californiana23.2 Variante Suiza23.3 Variante Chilota32. The Washington Route 33. The Colorado Route 34. Asado 24. The Canadian Route 25. Boris Simoncic 26. Anglo-AmericanaTraversesTravesía del Fitz Travesía Care Bear The Wave Effect link-upNorth Pillar Sit Start link-up


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