Aguja de l'S - East face
1. East Face and variations
350m 5 40°
Bernard Amy and partners (France), February 1968.
Description. The route climbs an obvious red colored dihedral on the left side of the east face, to reach a series of ledges and steps that are traversed to reach the south ridge of the summit pinnacle. This face provides many different possible routes of ascent all of which follow the same type of terrain.
History. The original objective of the first ascentionists was the east pillar of Cerro Fitz Roy, but they had to content themselves with the first ascent of Aguja de l’S and two new routes on Aguja Guillaumet.
In early 1989 Miroslav Sevilevski and Valentin Trenev from Bulgaria climbed a possible variation in the center of the SE face.
In March of 1993, German Rolf Thausing soloed a line that traverse across the east face, “Baby Face”, mostly easy with one section 5 (Variation 1.3).
In early 1994, Kako Pardiñas and Omar Moscoso from Argentina climbed a line on the far left side of the SE face, mostly easy with one section 6a+, which they named “Josh Aike” (Variation 1.2).
In late 1995 Cameron Burns (Australia), Julian Fisher and Charlie French (UK) climbed six new pitches on the red colored pillar, just to the right of the first ascent route, “Voie Fisher”, 5+ on good rock (Variation 1.4).
Approach. Campamento Poincenot to Laguna Sucia.
Descent. Via the same route.
Bibliography.
Trenev: AAJ 1990 p. 210.
Thausing: AAJ 1994 p.185.
Burns: AAJ 1996 p.233; Climber 1997/1 p. 44-51.
See also: High Magazine 142 p.42; High Magazine 164 p.31.
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