Aguja de l'S - South face


7. The Art of War


900m 7a A2

Crystal Davis-Robbins and Ryan Nelson (USA), February 2007.

Description. The first buttress has the best rock on the route. It is predominantly 6a with one hard free climbing section of maybe 7a and some A2. Once on top of the buttress you climb up and left into a slab with cracks to eventually gain the west ridge and join the route Thaw isn’t Houlding Wright for a couple of pitches.
Once on the large ledge traverse right farther than you think right until you reach a steep corner. Climb this corner for approximately 90 meters and once at its top down climb 6 meters to get into the crack system you will follow to the top. The climbing in this system is predominately wide, off-widths to chimneys, and almost all vertical to overhanging. The upper pitches are often wet and require some aid.
Climb across the summit ridge, then climb a pitch and half to the northern, main summit.

History. Climbed alpine style over two days, in a single 35 hours push.

Approach. De Agostini to right before Niponinos.

Pro. Certainly a fair bit of wide gear.

Descent. Via the North Ridge route.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja De l'S southwest face

Aguja De l'S south face

Aguja De l'S west face