Aguja de l'S - West face


5. Jugo de Hielo


900m 6a 85º

Gian Carlo Grassi, Roberto Pe and Mauro Rossi (Italy), 30/11/1986.

Description. Climb the couloir that leads into the heart of the west face to its very end (700m 45º), from where a 300-meter long ice smear (75º-85º) lead to easy ground and the summit pyramid, which involves 100 meters of straight forward rock climbing (6a). Many might dismiss Aguja de l’S as not being worthy of attention, but routes like this one prove otherwise. Jugo de Hielo is a rare hidden jewel, one that unfortunately does not form often.

History. The first ascent party took 13 hours to complete the climb. It has been repeated a few times since.

Approach. De Agostini to right before Niponinos.

Pro. Full ice kit, including 9 to 12 screws, plus a standard alpine rack.

Descent. Via the north ridge.

Bibliography. Alp Magazine 23 p. 18-21; Rivista della Montagna 84 p. 12-13; Rivista della Montagna 86 p.56-61; Mountain Magazine 119 p. 12; AAJ 1987 p. 215; Annales GHM 1987 p. 36; CAI-Rivista Mensile 1987/4 p. 36-44.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja De l'S west face

Aguja De l'S west face