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Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.

Aguja de l'S - West face

5. Jugo de Hielo

600m 6a 85º

Gian Carlo Grassi, Roberto Pe and Mauro Rossi (Italy), 30/11/1986.

Description. Climb the couloir that leads into the heart of the west face to its very end (700m 45º), from where a 300-meter long ice smear (75º-85º) lead to easy ground and the summit pyramid, which involves 100 meters of straight forward rock climbing (6a). Many might dismiss Aguja de l’S as not being worthy of attention, but routes like this one prove otherwise. Jugo de Hielo is a rare hidden jewel, one that unfortunately does not form often.

History. The first ascent party took 13 hours to complete the climb. It has been repeated a few times since.

Approach. Before Niponino.

Descent. Via the Austriaca along the north ridge.

Bibliography. Alp Magazine 23 p. 18-21; Rivista della Montagna 84 p. 12-13; Rivista della Montagna 86 p.56-61; Mountain Magazine 119 p. 12; AAJ 1987 p. 215; Annales GHM 1987 p. 36; CAI-Rivista Mensile 1987/4 p. 36-44.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja De l'S west face

Aguja De l'S west face

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Aguja De l'SEast face1 Cara Este 1.2 Josh Aike 1.3 Baby Face1.4 Voie Fisher 2. Qui se souvient des Hommes3. Femme de ma vie3.1 Haizea4. AustriacaWest face12. Los del Maipo5. Jugo de Hielo6. Thaws not Houlding WrightSouth face7. The Art of War11. Besos to Pesos8. The Gentlemen's Club10. Carne y Papas9. The Wormhole Theory


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