Aguja Mermoz - Northwest face


3. Hypermermoz

3.1 Polish Variation

600m (350 new) 6c

Maurizio Giordani and Aldo Levitti (Italy), 16/12/1996, to the junction with the north ridge. Maciej Ciesielski and Jakub Radziejowski (Poland), 7/2/2004, to the summit.

Description. This route is a variation start to the harder Cosas Patagónicas, climbing 9 new pitches to its left, joining it in the middle section for 3 pitches, before moving right to a not so clear 3 pitch variation in the upper headwall. In all Hypermermoz climbs 16 pitches to where it joins the north ridge, of which as many as 12 were new, but likely less.

History. The climb was done in a one day from Piedra del Fraile. Aldo Levitti is a well know climber in the Dolomites, where he has named a lot of his new routes by prefixing the name Hyper to the name of the peak (e.g. Hyperscotoni on the Cima Scotoni). The first ascentionists retreated upon reaching the Argentine route in the north ridge, 150 meters below the summit. It was Polish Maciej Ciesielski and Jakub Radziejowski that in 2004 with some variations (see below) did the first ascent to the summit. Slovenes Tomaz Jakofcic and Grega Lacen did the first free ascent of the original line in 2006.

Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra, across the second saddle right of the start of Guillaumet’s NW buttress, across slabs (2 and 3) to a snowfield that leads to the base.

Pro. Standard rack.

Descent. Via the same route or the Argentine route.

Bibliography. High Magazine 176 p. 76. Annales GHM 96/97 p. 39, p.57; Pareti 3 p. 20-21; AAJ 1997 p. 249.