Aguja Mermoz - East face


10. Jardines Japoneses

600m (350 new) AI4 M5 6b A1

Colin Haley, Jens Holsten and Mikey Schaefer (USA), 28/12/2010.

Description. Climbs an obvious gully in the east face to reach the vicinity to the Guillo-Mermoz col, to then join the upper half of the Argentine route along which it continues to the summit. This route could be a good choice when the weather is cold and other objectives are too icy to climb.

History. They decided to call the route Jardines Japoneses (Japanese Gardens) in reference to their favorite climb at their favorite home crag of Index, Washington. Holsten and Schaefer had made an attempt a few days earlier but were driven back by bad weather just shy of the col.

Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior.

Pro. rock and ice gear.

Descent. Rappel via the same route.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Mermoz east face