Aguja Mermoz - East face

6. Padre Viento.

400m M6 WI5+

Topher Donahue and Jared Ogden (USA), 12/2001, to the ridge.

Description. The line climbs a prominent banana shape runnel to reaches a notch on the far side of Mermoz’s south ridge. This is a very conditions dependant climb. Good ice conditions in this area happen very rarely.

History. Donahue and Ogden retreated upon reaching the ridge. Frenchmen Laurence Monnoyeur and Bruno Sourzac had attempted this line back in 1998, retreating after four pitches.

Approach. Paso Superior to Glaciar Grande Superior.

Descent. Via the same route.

Bibliography.
Sourzac. High Magazine 203 p. 85.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Mermoz east face

Aguja Mermoz east face