Torre Egger – South face
2. Psycho Vertical
950m 6c A3 90°
Janez Jeglic, Silvo Karo and Francek Knez (Slovenia), 7/12/1986.
Description. A natural “directissima”. The climb starts up a dangerous gully between Torre Egger and Cerro Torre, to the base of a very steep crack system, that leads to an obvious dihedral. The last two pitches might be in common with the “American route” (they found two pitons).
History. These three Slovenes were at the time one of the strongest alpine climbing partnerships around. They fixed ropes in the lower 550 meters, from there they climbed to the summit and back in a 22 hour push. According to Karo, this is the best of his and Jeglic's four major first ascents in this area.
After this ascent and regarding their use of fixed ropes Silvo Karo wrote: “We must admit that our triumph was only possible because of the network of fixed ropes. Taking into consideration the height of the faces and the rapid and unpredictable weather changes, it is almost impossible to climb in pure alpine style. The proof is that almost all routes in Patagonia have been first done with fixed ropes. Some day the routes may be climbed free, solo and in one day. This is a natural development, a kind of staircase where every new step follows the older ones”.
Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to Noruegos.
Pro. Cams to camalot 5 or 6, including double on #4.
Bibliography. Mountain magazine 119 p. 11; AAJ 1987 p. 209; AAJ 1988 p. 48-51; Rivista della Montagna 85 p. 19; Annales GHM 1987 p. 36; Alp magazine 25 p. 18; Desnivel magazine 30 p. 29.
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