Torre Egger - East Face

4. Titanic

4.1 Martin-O’Neill link-up
4.2 Winter link-up

950m 6a A2 AI6

Maurizio Giarolli and Elio Orlandi, (Italy), 2-5/11/1987.

Description. A very impressive line up Torre Egger's east buttress. The crux is a six pitch hanging ice runnel, in the lower third of the route. It starts left of the “Italian” route climbing smooth granite slabs that in two pitches lead to the ice runnel. Moderate rock after this leads to a snowfield and cracks right of the hanging prow. The first ascentionists found a natural tunnel to overcame the summit mushroom, but parties in the last few years have been climbing up and left of the mushroom.

History. Giarolli and Orlandi’s original intent was to attempt the Torres Traverse, but after spending much of their energy hauling ten days of food and gear to within 100 meters of the summit of Standhardt they gave up, and turned their sights to Egger. Guido Cominelli, Lorenzo Nadali and Andrea Sarchi had attempted this line a month earlier. They reached the obvious snowfield half way up and left 500 meters of fixed ropes in place. Giarolli and Orlandi used those ropes during their ascent, not re-climbing that lower half. There have been no repeats of this route, which still awaits a continuous ascent. The route is named after the upper pillar, that reminds of the prow of a ship.

Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to Noruegos.

Pro.

Descent. Via the same route.

Bibliography. Lo Scarpone 1988/9 p. 8-9; Mountain 125 p. 13; Alp magazine 44 p. 76-83; AAJ 1988 p. 52-55; Rivista della Montagna 96 p. 12-13; CAI-Rivista Mensile 1988/4 p. 76; Bolletino SAT 1988/1 p. 23-26; Vertical 16 p.72-73.