Punta Herron –East face

5. Tobogan

600m 6a A1 AI3 M6

Rolando Garibotti (somewhere) and Silvo Karo (Slovenia), 1999.

Description. Climbs an obvious line leading to the col dei Sogni. The climb is not as easy as it looks. The lower part has several sections that required aid, one of them a bit time consuming. After that, there is much mixed climbing to the half way point, where the climbing becomes straight forward all the way to the col. The climbing is neither special nor good. Alpine groveling, “guarro” as a Spaniard would say.

History. It was first attempted by Spaniard Pepe Chaverri and Italian Ermanno Salvaterra in 1994, but they retreat after 300 meters when Pepe was injured by falling rock. Garibotti and Karo climbed to the col in one day and retreated after a “too cold” sleeping-bag-less bivy.

The name refers to the Spigolo dei Bimbi. Below the “arete of the childen” a “tobogan” (slide in spanish).

Approach. Walking.

Pro. Six to ten pitons on top of whatever rack you deem appropriate.

Descent. From the col there are three options: down the route, safe but it involves much traversing in the middle; down the route at first then straight to the hanging glacier and the top of the serac, then either across it to rap the Italian route on Egger, or down skiers left, to rap right under the serac back to the glacier (only if you are sure to still have one of your seven lives to spare...). The last is the most dangerous but fastest option. Far all the options you will need a few pitons because you are likely not to find one or more of the rap stations.

Bibliography.
Chaverri et al. Desnivel magazine 93 p. 92; High magazine 142 p. 39; AAJ 1994 p. 181.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Torre Egger and Aguja Standhardt

south face

Torre Egger and Aguja Standhardt

southeast face