Cerro El Mocho - East buttress
2. Voie des Bénitiers
400m 7b (6b A1)
Daniel Anker and Michel Piola (Switzerland), 4/1/1989.
Description. Climbs a line left of the first ascent route, which it joins in the upper pitches. Except for the first pitch, which can be avoided by climbing to the right, the quality of the rock is very good. Well worth the walk!
History. Piola and Anker waited for good weather in the Piergiorgio valley for about a month, until they had to go home. The day they were supposed to leave they changed their minds and decided to stay an extra ten days. During those ten days and in spite of mostly bad weather they climbed four new routes, an impressive one on Poincenot (still unrepeated), one on Innominata, one on Guillaumet and this very enjoyable one on El Mocho. The name of the article Piola wrote for Mountain Magazine back then was “Patagonicos Desesperados”, a name that likely explains well the frustration they so successfully channeled into such a ferocious spree of activity.
The first free ascent of the route was done by Americans Chis Righter and Josh Wharton in January of 2011.
Approach. De Agostini to Niponino.
Pro. In case the pin is missing at the crux aid move bring a couple of Rp’s, plus 2 ea. camalots to # 2, 1 ea. camalot to #3, stoppers.
Descent. Via the same route.
Bibliography. Mountain magazine 130 p. 20-25; Vertical magazine 32 p. 28-37; AAJ 1990 p. 206-209. |
