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Update: last updated on 21/02/2013.

Aguja Mermoz - Northwest face

3. Hypermermoz

350m 6c

Maurizio Giordani and Aldo Levitti (IT), 16/12/1996, to the junction with the Argentina (150m from the top). Maciej Ciesielski and Jakub Radziejowski (PL), 7/2/2004, to the summit (with variation).

Description. This route is a variation start to the harder Cosas Patagónicas, climbing 9 new pitches to its left, joining it in the middle section for 3 pitches, before moving right 2 pitch variation in the upper headwall. In all Hypermermoz climbs 16 pitches to where it joins the ruta Argentina, of which 11 were new (600m altogether to the summit).

In 2004 Polish Maciej Ciesielski and Jakub Radziejowski climbed a three-pitch variation on slabs left of the original line (6b, with one tension traverse). This was the second ascent of Hypermermoz and first ascent of the route to the summit. (3.1)

In 2012 Gosia Lipinska (ZA) and Jared Spaulding (US) climbed a short variation start involving 4 pitches to 6b ("The Zulu and the Cowboy"). (3.2)

Several variations are possible in the upper part, in 2012 Jonathan Jorzuk (AR) and JB (US) climbed a system four meters to the right of the main corner.

History. The climb was done in a one day from Piedra del Fraile. Aldo Levitti is a well know climber in the Dolomites, where he has named a lot of his new routes by prefixing the name Hyper to the name of the peak (e.g. Hyperscotoni on the Cima Scotoni). The first ascentionists retreated upon reaching the ruta Argentina in the north ridge, 150 meters below the summit. It was Polish Maciej Ciesielski and Jakub Radziejowski that in 2004 with some variations (see below) did the first ascent to the summit. Slovenes Tomaz Jakofcic and Grega Lacen did the first free ascent of the original line in 2006.

Approach. Piedra Negra, across the second saddle right of the start of Guillaumet’s NW buttress, across slabs (2 and 3) to a snowfield that leads to the base.

Descent. Via the same route or the ruta Argentina.

Bibliography. High Magazine 176 p. 76. Annales GHM 96/97 p. 39, p.57; Pareti 3 p. 20-21; AAJ 1997 p. 249.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Mermoz west face

Aguja Mermoz west face

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Aguja MermozNorthwest face 1. Argentina2. Cosas Patagónicas3. HypermermozWest face4. Barriga PatagónicaNorthwest ridge5. Filo NoroesteEast face6. Padre Viento11. La Gran Diagonal7. Vol de Nuit8. Ferrari-Cevallos9. Pilar Rojo10. Jardines JaponesesTraversesTravesía Care Bear North Pillar Sit Start link-up


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