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Update: last updated on 04/01/2018.

Aguja Mermoz - East face

10. Jardines Japoneses

300m 80˚ M5 6b A1

Colin Haley, Jens Holsten and Mikey Schaefer (USA), 28/12/2010.

Description. Climbs an obvious gully in the east face to reach the vicinity to the Guillo-Mermoz col, to then join the upper half of the ruta Argentina along which it continues to the summit. This route could be a good choice when the weather is cold and other objectives are too icy to climb.

History. They decided to call the route Jardines Japoneses (Japanese Gardens) in reference to their favorite climb at their favorite home crag of Index, Washington. Holsten and Schaefer had made an attempt a few days earlier but were driven back by bad weather just shy of the col.

Approach. Paso Superior to Glaciar Grande Superior.

Descent. Rappel via the same route.


10.1 Marcoz -Stagnetto - Sullivan

Johanna Marcoz, Jeremy Stagnetto, Jerome Sullivan (FR), 10/2017

Climbs three new pitches to AI 5.


Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Mermoz east face

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Aguja MermozNorthwest face 1. Argentina2. Cosas Patagónicas3. HypermermozWest face4. Barriga PatagónicaNorthwest ridge5. Filo NoroesteEast face6. Padre Viento11. La Gran Diagonal7. Vol de Nuit8. Ferrari-Cevallos9. Pilar Rojo10. Jardines JaponesesTraversesTravesía Care Bear North Pillar Sit Start link-up


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