Aguja Standhardt – East face
3. Tomahawk
800m (450new) 5 A1 WI 6
Conrad Anker and Steve Gerberding, (USA), 25/12/1994 to Exocet. Laurence Monnoyeur and Bruno Sourzac (France), 1997 to the summit.
Description. Climbs an ice encased chimney leading to Exocet, which it joins after 400 meters.
History. Anker and Gerberding climbed to where Tomahawk joins Exocet, then retreated. Three years later Monnoyeur and Sourzac linked Tomahawk and Exocet to the summit. They completed the ascent in two days, with one bivy at the base of the Exocet chimney.
Although the name Exocet had a deeper meaning beyond the missile theme, the subject has stuck to the face.
Winter ascent. In 2002 Quebequois Martin Bointeau and Claude Gagnon made a winter ascent of Tomahawk.
Approach. De Agostini to Niponino.
Pro. Ice kit, plus a few pieces of rock gear to Camalot #1.
Descent. Via Exocet.
Bibliography.
Anker et al. High magazine 152 p. 15; Annales GHM 1994-95 p. 11; Vertical magazine 78 p. 49.
Monnoyeur et al. AAJ 1998 p. 282-284; Vertical magazine 108 may 98 p. 46-54; Blue vol2 #1 march 99 p. 51-57. |