Cerro Torre - East face


8. Italian Attempt

Italians Fabio Giacomelli and Elio Orlandi made several attempts to climb a route between Quinque Anni ad Paradisum and the Devil’s Directissima. They first attempted the route in the 2005-06 season and using fixed ropes, which they left in place from one season to the next, they pushed their high point higher and higher, making many attempts over the following three seasons. In late 2009, after yet another month spent working on the route, having reached a point 350 meters from the summit and while descending separately, Giacomelli was swept by an avalanche near the base of the route. Orlandi realized that something had gone wrong when he returned to their snowcave and found it empty. He then spent several days looking for his friend, managing to eventually find his body, which was later recovered.

Since it seems clear that Orlandi is still intent in trying again, having left all fixed ropes and gear in place, this line should be considered, out of courtesy and for lack of a better word, “off-limits.” Part of their kit includes Cesarino Fava’s ashes, which Orlandi hopes to carry to the summit of Cerro Torre. The line and high point marked in the photos are approximate.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Cerro Torre east face

Cerro Torre southeast face