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Update: last updated on 25/10/2010.

Cerro Torre - East face

8. Giacomelli-Orlandi Attempt

Italians Fabio Giacomelli and Elio Orlandi made several attempts to climb a route between Quinque Anni ad Paradisum and the Devil’s Directissima. They first attempted the route in the 2005-06 season and using fixed ropes, which they left in place from one season to the next, they pushed their high point higher and higher, making many attempts over the following three seasons (conquest alpinism at its best). In late 2009, after yet another month spent working on the route, having reached a point 350 meters from the summit and while descending separately, Giacomelli was swept by an avalanche near the base of the route. Orlandi realized that something had gone wrong when he returned to their snowcave and found it empty. He then spent several days looking for his friend, managing to eventually find his body, which was later recovered. He made another attempt in 2013 and yet another in 2015. It is unclear if he has removed his many fixed ropes and equipment.

The line and high point marked in the photos are approximate.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Cerro Torre east face

Cerro Torre southeast face

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Cerro TorreWest face 1 Via dei Ragni1.1 Directa Huarpe South face2 Los Tiempos Perdidos 3 Cara Sur4 Infinito Sud5 What's love got to do with itSoutheast ridge6 Vía del Compresor13 Filo Sureste / Southeast ridge13.1 Slovene sitstart13.2 The long run13.3 The corkscrewEast face7 Peklenska Direttissima8 Giacomelli - Orlandi Attempt9 Quinque Anni ad Paradisum10 Burke - Proctor AttemptEast and north face11 El Arca de los Vientos11.1 Directa de la MentiraNorthwest face12 NW Face AttemptsTraversesTravesía del TorreTravesía del Oso BudaTravesía Adelas a Torre


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