home climbing areas field notesknowledgedisclaimercopyrightcontactdonate

Update: last updated on 10/03/2017.

Desmochada - Southeast face

7. Circus Pets

500m 6c

Pete Fasoldt and Eli Simon (USA) 9/2/2011.

Description. Climbs 13 pitches on rock that is far from great, that has many loose flakes. It starts at a snow ledge about 30m below the horizontal ledge that splits the first third of the tower's south face. Pitch 10 is a 35-40 meter off width with little to no protection. You can bypass it by climbing left, traversing 8-10 meters to then head up 40 meters, trending up and right, rejoining the route just below the belay at the end of the original OW pitch. The first ascentionists aided a two meter section on the last pitch where they encountered an icy crack. This was later freeclimbed by Ben Erdmann and Mark Westman.

History. They first attempted the route a few weeks earlier with German Carsten Von Birkhahn but only made it up 6 pitches. During the final ascent Fasoldt pulled out a huge loose block on the approach pitch and took a 7 meter fall smashing his head, hand, knee, elbow, and butt. It was not a great way to begin the day. Luckily they had a few Percocets (pain killers) with them and these allowed Fasoldt to keep climbing. The route's name is a play on the words on the Percocets.

Approach. Niponino and Couloir Poincenot.

Descent. This route has a lot of flakes, rappelling down it is not recomended. Consider rappelling The Sound and the Fury.

Photos (click to enlarge)


Desmochada east face


Desmochada south face and

southeast face

Please Do Not Reprint This Article
This article is copyrighted. Please do not reprint this article in whole or part, in any form, without obtaining written permission.

if you find any mistakes or if you have additional information, please go to the contact page and let us know.

Aguja DesmochadaWest face1. El CóndorSouth face 2. Golden Eagle2.1 Brass Parrot link-up3. The Sound and the Fury3.1 Free variation4. Dieta del Lagarto5. El FacónEast face6. Puerta Blanca6.1 Variation7. Circus Pets8. CodaTraverseThe Wave Effect


If you find this web page useful, please consider making a donation

Chaltén Massif
Cerro San Lorenzo
Cerro Murallón
Cerro Riso Patron
Cerro Catedral/Frey
Tetons (USA)

Trail restoration work