Desmochada - West and east face
6. Puerta Blanca
6.1 Variation
1300m 6b A0
Alexander Huber (Germany) and Mario Walder (Austria) 9-10/2/2007.
Description. Three hundred meters of easy scrambling lead to a steep grey pillar (6 pitches to 6a) followed by easier terrain (7 pitches, to 5) and a gully to reach the col immediately between Desmochada and Silla which the first ascensionists dubbed “La Puerta Blanca.” From here traverse to the east side of the peak and climb six pitches to reach the summit (250m). Alexander describes it as being “a very long and involved alpine route” and points out that in the lower part there is no shortage of objective danger (rock fall).
History. The route was climbed alpine style over two days, with one bivy at the col. The 1000-meter "approach" to the col was first "traveled" by Bridwell, Dunmire and Smith while descending from Desmochada and later climbed almost in its entirety by Bonapace and Ponholzer during attempts on the west face of Silla.
Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to Polacos. From there head north to a right leaning ramp which is just before the Filo del Hombre Sentado.
Pro. Camalots 0 to 4, nuts, 3 ice screws, crampons and ice axes. A small set of pitons might be useful.
6.1 Variation.
American Colin Haley and German Carsten von Birckhahn made the second ascent of the upper portion of Puerta Blanca climbing a variation along the way. They approached via the Poincenot couloir, accessing in this way the last 250 meters of Puerta Blanca (6a A0). The approach involves climbing under a scary looking serac and at one point climbs a difficult rock step (6b, crack).
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