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Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.

Desmochada - South face

5. El Facón

600m 7a+ A0

Bean Bowers (USA), Ben Bransby (England) and Jvan Tresch (Switzerland), 5/2/2004.

Description. The route starts left of center of the bottom section up chimney (5+) that leads to three pitches of moderate to hard splitters (6b) that lead to a big ledge. Traverse 60m (easy) to the right directly below the overhanging prow. Climb a couple hard crack pitches to reach the crux, shallow, rattly fingers in an overhanging dihedral (7a+). The next pitch sports thin hands through a dead horizontal sickle roof (6c+) that exits via a Harding Slot-like pod-chimney that ends in fists (6b+). Above that a rope-stretcher off-width (6c+ A0) to hands (6b+) leads to easier terrain on the upper southeast face where an icy slot (5+) and an unprotected icy off-width (6a) lead to the two final pitches (6a) in common with El Condor. 16 pitches total (700m).

History. Theirs was the second ascent of Desmochada. They named the route El Facón which means “gaucho’s knife,” for the cutter nature of the rock and for the way their bodies felt the following day.

Approach. Niponino and Couloir Poincenot.

Descent. Rappel via The Sound and the Fury. Once at the ledge traverse to the west end of the ledge where a bolt and a piton mark the rappel line. Make one rappel to the south, then 5 more raps to the west to reach ground. From there the easiest descent is down the couloir to the north, making two 30m raps (slung horn and then a single bolt) to a ledge right above it, followed by one 60 meter rap into the couloir itself (fixed piton).

Photos (click to enlarge)


Desmochada south face


Desmochada south face


Desmochada southwest face

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Aguja DesmochadaWest face1. El CóndorSouth face 2. Golden Eagle2.1 Brass Parrot link-up3. The Sound and the Fury3.1 Free variation4. Dieta del Lagarto5. El FacónEast face6. Puerta Blanca6.1 Variation7. Circus Pets8. CodaTraverseThe Wave Effect


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