Desmochada – South and SE face

8. CoDa

700m (350m new) 7a+ A0

Neill Kauffman and Josh Wharton (USA), 2/2011.

Description. The first ascensionists climbed the lower pitches of Golden Eagle, then traversed right along the obvious ledge, past El Facon to reach a crack system right of a big right facing corner. Along this system they climbed 7 new pitches up to 7a+ with two points of A0; a pendulum to avoid a seam, and a move around a scary detached flake. As the angle eased off on the upper face, they traversed left, crossing several routes to join Golden Eagle for the upper ridge finish of the peak.

History. They climbed the route in a 31-hour push from Niponino camp, stopping for a 3 hours bivy during the descent. The route is named in memory of climbers Jonny Copp and Micah Dash who died in May 2009 while attempting to climb a peak in China’s Sichuan province.

Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to Polacos. Scramble up easy rock (2 to 4) to the left of the Poincenot couloir to reach the base of the wall.

Pro. Camalots to #5.

Descent. Because of high winds the first ascensionists rapped north to the Puerta Blanca col, then south down the Poincenot couloir. Rappelling via The Sound and the Fury is the preferred alternative.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Desmochada south and southeast

face

Desmochada east face

Desmochada south face