Desmochada - South face


3. The Sound and the Fury

3.1 Free variation

700m 7a A0

Dave Sharratt and Freddie Wilkinson (USA), 24/1/2006.

Description. The route climbs a steep, continuous, mostly free (up 7a with some short sections of A0) crack system between El Facón and El Condor. Climb the first five pitches of El Facón to the big ledge. To reach the corner/crack system directly above traverse 15 meters right on a big terrace and then follow a series of flakes (5) back left to enter the corner. Once you pop onto the southeast face up high, climb a chimney (mixed) or two pitches of flakes (6a) to the left of the chimney to access the summit ridge.

History. The route was climbed alpine style, in a 38-hour push from Polacos to summit and then to town. During the descent they lost one of their ropes so they were forced to make 20m raps. The name refers to a well known American novel, but like has stronger ties to the intensity of the storm that hit the first ascentionists during the descent.

Approach. De Agostini to Niponino to Polacos. From there head north, past the Poincenot couloir and choose one of many ways to go up. You can scramble up the first right leaning ramp at the bottom left of the buttress or walk up the couloir around to the left that leads to two short pitches (4) . Both alternatives are involved. The couloir has some rockfall danger.

Pro. Double to camalot # 5, stoppers.

Descent. Rappel via The Sound and the Fury. Once at the ledge traverse to the west end of the ledge where a bolt and a piton mark the rappel line. Make one rappel to the south, then 5 more raps to the west to reach ground. From there the easiest descent is down the couloir to the north, making two 30m raps (slung horn and then a single bolt) to a ledge right above it, followed by one 60 meter rap into the couloir itself (fixed piton).