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Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.

Desmochada - South face

3. The Sound and the Fury

3.1 Free variation

450m 7a A0
(7b with variation)

Dave Sharratt and Freddie Wilkinson (USA), 24/1/2006.

Description. The route climbs a steep, continuous, mostly free (up 7a with some short sections of A0) crack system between El Facón and El Condor. Climb the first five pitches of El Facón to the big ledge. To reach the corner/crack system directly above traverse 15 meters right on a big terrace and then follow a series of flakes (5) back left to enter the corner. Once you pop onto the southeast face up high, climb a chimney (mixed) or two pitches of flakes (6a) to the left of the chimney to access the summit ridge. 700m altogether.

History. The route was climbed alpine style, in a 38-hour push from Polacos to summit and then to town. During the descent they lost one of their ropes so they were forced to make 20m raps. The name refers to a well known American novel, but like has stronger ties to the intensity of the storm that hit the first ascentionists during the descent.

Approach. Niponino and Couloir Poincenot.

Descent. Rappel via The Sound and the Fury. Once at the ledge traverse to the west end of the ledge where a bolt and a piton mark the rappel line. Make one rappel to the south, then 5 more raps to the west to reach ground. From there the easiest descent is down the couloir to the north, making two 30m raps (slung horn and then a single bolt) to a ledge right above it, followed by one 60 meter rap into the couloir itself (fixed piton).

Photos (click to enlarge)


Desmochada south face


Desmochada southwest face


Desmochada south face

3.1 Free variation

In early 2008 Will Stanhope and Jason Kruk (Canada) climbed a free variation to this route. From the big ledge they traverse right and climbed along El Facon for half a pitch before traversing left to join The Sound and the Fury. Where The Sound and the Fury gets steeper they climbed a crack just to the left for two pitches. The all free, team free ascent went at 7b. Their variation’s crux involves a thin corner followed by a punishing finger crack. They took a couple falls in the two-pitch variation but they re-started from no-hands stances each time.

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Aguja DesmochadaWest face1. El CóndorSouth face 2. Golden Eagle2.1 Brass Parrot link-up3. The Sound and the Fury3.1 Free variation4. Dieta del Lagarto5. El FacónEast face6. Puerta Blanca6.1 Variation7. Circus Pets8. CodaTraverseThe Wave Effect


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