Aguja Bifida - Punta Filip - East face

8. Amigos Perdidos

500m 50º 6b+

Rolando Garibotti (somewhere) and Silvo Karo (Slovenia), 22/11/1999.

Description. Climb a five mixed pitches right of the Lüthi-Bresba route, to reach a 5 pitch wall which is climbed via cracks and dihedrals just left of the col between Filip and Triologia Inca. After some easy ground head for a small saddle located just to the east of the summit block. To reach the actual summit, from the saddle, lower the leader 15 or 20 meters to the north, then tension traverse to the west and climb up a north facing run-out slab to eventually reach a cam placement and the summit. To rappel, since the summit is a compact block, down-climb to the east until you reach a fixed stopper. No bolts were placed.

History. In 1996 an Italian team climbed the west face but retreated from the saddle east of the summit, thinking that to climb the summit block would require extensive drilling (see Su Patagunia). Garibotti and Karo did the first ascent of this small secondary summit of Aguja Bifida, which they christened in honor of Janez Jeglic’s son, who was born a few months after the disappearance of his father on Nuptse in late October of 1997.

They named the route in remembrance of Swiss Aischan Rupp and Slovene Janez Jeglic, two close friends who lost their lives in the mountains in 1997 and also as a humorous reference to the fact that the first ascensionists forgot by mistake two “friends” (camalots) on the route.

Approach. Niponino.

Descent. Via the same route.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Bifida, Punta Filip, Cuatro

Dedos and CAT - overview

Aguja Bifida - east face

Aguja Bifida - northeast face