Aguja Bifida - South summit – South ridge

6. Cheoma

350m (200 new?) 6a A1 45º (from the col)

Tommy Bonapace and Toni Ponholzer (Austria), 7/12/1990.

Description. The “approach” to the Perfil de Indio col (Bifida-Perfil de Indio) involves 400 meters of snow and ice to 55º as well a couple of rock pitches (to 5). Once at the col climb several moderate pitches to a big ear shaped off-width crack that leads to icy cracks and another five pitches to the summit, many of which are in common with the Swiss route.

History. “Cheoma” is Toni’s nickname. Tommy named the route without Toni’s knowing.

Approach. De Agostini to Niponino then on up the glacier.

Pro. Some wide gear might come handy.

Descent. Via the same route, including 6 or more rappels in the couloir.

Bibliography. AAJ 1992 p. 90-94; Gipfelsturmer 1996 p. 14-21.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Bifida, Punta Filip, Cuatro

Dedos and CAT - overview

Aguja Bifida - east face

Aguja Bifida - southeast face