Aguja Bifida - South summit – south ridge

5. Filo Sur

300m 6a A2 (from the col)

Paul Von Känel and Hans Peter Trachsel (Switzerland), 1/1975.

Description. The “approach” to the Perfil de Indio col (Bifida-Perfil de Indio) involves 400 meters of snow and ice to 55º as well a couple of rock pitches (to 5). Once at the col, climb cracks to the west of the south ridge (five pitches, to 6a), then traverse right to the east side. A tricky off-width crack requiring some aid and another five pitches lead to the summit.

History. The route was climbed alpine style, with one bivy.

Approach. Niponino.

Descent. Via the same route to the col, then six more rappels in the couloir.

Bibliography. AAJ 1976 p. 504; Anuario CAB 1979 p. 19; Mountain magazine 42 p. 11-12.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Bifida, Punta Filip, Cuatro

Dedos and CAT - overview

Aguja Bifida - east face

Aguja Bifida - west face

Aguja Bifida - southeast face