Aguja Bifida - North summit – East and north face

1. Lüthi-Bresba

700m 6b A1 50º

Horacio Bresba (Argentina) and Pedro Lüthi (Switzerland), 3-4/3/1989.

Description. Climb mixed ground for eight pitches to reach the base of a big dihedral. Cracks on the right face of the dihedral (four pitches) lead to a traverse left, onto the north face (six pitches). Climb the right of two obvious chimneys (three pitches) to the ridge. Two more pitches involving two pendulums get you to the summit. The rock at times is sandy.

History. Bresba and Lüthi’s was the first ascent of the main summit. They made one bivy while descending. Eduardo Brenner and Pedro Friedrich had attempted this line in 1986, getting to a point 100 meters from the summit.

Approach. De Agostini to Niponino and up the glacier.

Pro. Double to #3 and stoppers?

Descent. Via the same route. The first ascentionists downclimbed the last two pitches then made 18 rappels.

Bibliography. AAJ 1990 p. 206; Annales GHM 1990 p. 53; CAB-Revista1989/21 p. 32-34.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Bifida, Punta Filip, Cuatro

Dedos and CAT - overview

Aguja Bifida - northeast face

Aguja Bifida - north face

Aguja Bifida - east face