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Update: last updated on 05/08/2010.

Aguja Poincenot - West face

9. Carrington-Rouse

400m 6a+

Rab Carrington and Alan Rouse (UK), 22/2/1977.

Description. A very fine alpine route. The climbing is varied, from fine face climbing, to lay-backing on flakes, to a chimney and an odd mixed groove. The upper portion of the route follows the Fonrouge-Rosasco, which in turn joins the Whillans-Cochrane.

History. They climbed alpine style, employing three days round trip from the Torre glacier. The first ascensionists had done one attempt a few days before, during which they were forced to retreat half way up the ramp due to bad weather.

Approach. Niponino to Couloir Poincenot.

Descent. Via the same route (take plenty of cord and stoppers), via Judgement Day (involved), or east, via the Whillans-Cochrane, by far the easiest descent.

Bibliography. Mountain Magazine 58 p. 18-21; AAJ 1978 p. 581-583; Climbing Magazine 47 p. 5-11; Andinismo 1977/1 p.56?.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Aguja Poincenot

Aguja Poincenot north face

Aguja Poincenot

Aguja Poincenot west face

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Aguja PoincenotEast face 1. Whillans-Cochrane1.1 Variation2. Fühle dich stark, aber nicht unsterblich3. Patagónicos Desesperados4. Whisky TimeNorth face21. Invisible Line5. Potter-Davis6. Banana Wall7. 40º Gruppo Ragni7.1 John Henry8. The Old Smuggler's Rt.West face9. Carrington-Rouse11. Southern Cross12. Tango ViejoSouthwest face13. Fonrouge-Rosasco13.1 DNV Direct13.2 Benedetti-Degregori13.3 Bransby-Tresch14. El Sacrificio del Ratón19. Rise of the Machines15. Judgment Day16. Historia InterminableSoutheast face20. Vía Russo17. Bagual Bigwall18. Sperone degli ItalianiTraverseTravesía Copp-Wharton


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