Aguja Guillaumet - East face

15. Amy Couloir

300 meters 5 60º

Bernard Amy and Pierre Vidailhet (France), 27/2/1968.

Description. Climbs the couloir immediately left of the north buttress. It involves easy snow climbing as well as a short rock climbing section to reach the summit snowfield. A good alternative for marginal weather days. It can be crowded. It is the easiest route up any of the “granite” summits.

Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet.

History. This couloir was climbed as a consolation prize after an unsuccessful attempt on Fitz Roy’s east pillar. Other members of the same French expedition completed the first ascent of the so-called Guillot couloir the day before.
Solo ascents. Bruno Sourzac (France) in 2000, and a few days later Frank Herreghewe (Belgium). Many solo ascents since.
Winter ascents. Andy Kirkpatrick, Nick Lewis, Jim Hall and Paul Ramsden (UK) in July 1999. Several other winter ascents since.

Pro. Alpine rack?.

Descent. Descend via the Amy couloir.

Bibliography.
Amy: Annales GHM 1969 page 29.
Kirkpatrick: Climbing 189 p. 30; High 203 p. 85; Climber 11/99, p. 42-49.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet east face