Aguja Guillaumet - North face


17. Guillotina


300 m 6c A0

Luciano Fiorenza and Federico Arletti (Argentina), 2/2010.

Description. Starts up a right leaning corner, near the highest point of the snowfield, at the base of the north face. The first ascentionists report excelllent climbing that will likely go free at around 7a/b.

History. During a period of two weeks in late February 2010 Luciano went on to open more than 40 new pitches in the area, including the ten in this route, plus 18 in a new route in the west face of Fitz Roy (Historia sin Fin) and over 20 in another line on the north face of Fitz (Clinica de Aventura).

Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra.

Pro. Double to #3, one #4, stoppers.

Descent. Comesaña-Fonrouge route.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet north face