Aguja Guillaumet - East face
9. Hard Saying' not Knowing
400m 6a A2 75º
Kate Rutherford Michael Schaefer (USA) January 2009.
Description. Climbs a angling ramp system that cuts from right to left the bottom of a steep rock face to reach the right side of the big ice face which it climbs via it’s right side to a snow ridge just east of the summit. The first pitch involves an unprotected chimney (5), followed by a hand and finger crack (6a) trending up and left, to a ramp again heading left passing behind a pillar. From here it climbs straight up until the terrain again forces you left, to a short face traverse across a gully leading to a snow-filled corner system. Another ramp leads to a hand crack and a corner. Leading up and left on mixed terrain one reaches an arete that overlooks the Beager-Jennings couloir. A depression higher up involves some manky aid climbing, and gives access to the ice face, which after 150 meters leads to the summit ridge. The first ascent was done in fairly wintery conditions.
History. The first ascent took one day, reaching the summit around midnight. The original intent was to climb the Piola-Anker, but it was too snowy and this line looked like a good alternative.
Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas, or via Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet.
Pro. Whatever you deem appropriate.
Descent. Descend via the Amy couloir.
Bibliography. AAJ 2009 page 208.
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