Aguja Guillaumet - West face
22. Manos al Cielo
400m (250 new) 7a
Scott Bennett and Cheyne Lempe (USA), 01/2012.
Description. Climbs a line on the right side of the face, to the right of Tee Pitelka which it joins after 7 pitches. It starts up an obvious corner/chimney system between Tee Pitelka and Rayo de Luz, then climbs into a steep hanging corner immediately left, to reach a series of ledges where it joins Tee Pitelka to follow it all the way to the ridge line. The worst of the chimney gnar can be avoided by climbing cracks to the left. The lower half of the route is stellar, involving clean and steep handcracks.
History. Scott and Cheyne climbed the route in a single day, all free, redpointing every pitch. The route is named and dedicate to Carlyle Norman, a young Canadian climber who suffered a tragic accident on Aguja Saint Exupery the very same day this route was climbed. This is Scott's second new route in the west face of Guillaumet.
Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra, across the second saddle right of the start of the NW buttress, across slabs (2 and 3) to a snowfield that leads to the base of the west face.
Pro. Double to #3, one #4, stoppers.
Descent. The easiest descent is via Tee Pitelka, that has bolted anchors and rap slings.
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Photos (click to enlarge)
 Guillaumet west face 
Guillaumet west face |