Aguja Guillaumet - East face


14. Couloir Guillot


300 meters 5 70º

Joël Coqueugniot and François Guillot (France), 26/2/1968.

Description. Climbs the couloir immediately left of the Amy. It involves some mixed climbing as well as a short rock climbing section to reach the summit snowfield. A good alternative for days when the Amy couloir is overcrowded...

Approach. Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet.

History. This couloir was climbed as a consolation prize after an unsuccessful attempt on
Fitz Roy’s east pillar. A day later other members of the same French expedition completed the first ascent of the so-called Amy couloir, making these ascents the second and third ascents of Guillaumet.

Pro. Alpine rack?.

Descent. Descend via the Amy couloir.

Bibliography. Annales GHM 1969 p.29.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet east face