Aguja Guillaumet - East face


7. The Gambler


450 m M7 WI6

Topher Donahue and Jared Ogden (USA), December 2001.

Description. This route follows a line on the far left side of the face, climbing a series of very steep grooves filled with ice, which are very sustained. Donahue and Ogden took 12 hours to complete the route which they climbed in “winter” conditions, as a mixed and ice climb, with five pitches rated M7, and sections of WI6. The line ends in the ridge, between two prominent gendarmes. Ogden called it the most difficult and longest mixed climb he had done. Needless to say it is a very conditions dependant climb. Good ice conditions are seen very seldom in this area.

History. This line had been attempted in 1998 by Andy Cave and Dave Heslesden (UK) who started slightly left and retreated after climbing 2/3rds of the way up.

Approach. Rio Blanco to Paso Superior to Glaciar Piedras Blancas, or via Piedra del Fraile to Piedra Negra to Paso Guillaumet.

Pro. whatever you deem appropriate for a long mixed climb...

Bibliography.
Cave: Hgh 203 p. 86.

Photos (click to enlarge)

Guillaumet east face

Guillaumet east face